An American's Musings on The Kumano Kodo and Japan

The Big Question First - What Is The Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo is a 1000 year Shinto Buddhist Pilgrimage trek through the Kii Mountain Range in southern Japan. It is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage treks on this planet. The other is the Camino de Santiago in Spain. While largely unknown to the western world, it is said to be one of the most naturally beautiful treks in the world. It consists of a network of seven pilgrimage routes with the Nakahechi route being the most popular. It can be a challenging multi-day trek or a series of short single day walks supplemented with bus or boat transport.

Where Is and How Do I Get To The Kumano Kodo?

The Kii Mountain Range is a bit south of Kyoto and Osaka. You can expect it to take a good 7 hours by train from Tokyo to get to the start of the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo. You'll take a Shinkansen (Bullet train) from the Tokyo station of choice to Shin Osaka and then transfer to a Limited Express train toTanabe City's KiiTanabe train station. Local buses run from the train station and take about 45 min to Takijiri-oji, the entrance of Kumano Kodo and beginning of the Nakahechi route.

You should definitely purchase a Japan Rail Pass. A 7-Day Pass is less expensive than purchasing a round-trip ticket from Tokyo. You must purchase the Rail Pass in your home country before leaving for Japan though. I personally always spring for the Green First Class Pass. It really isn't that expensive in context of your trip. You get much more space in your seat and the train cars are also much less crowded.

HyperDia is the Japan Rail Schedule website. There is also an accompanying mobile app for your smartphone.

Local bus schedules and much more are available at the Kumano Kodo Tourism website. 

When Should I Do The Kumano Kodo?

The Kii Mountain Range has a temperate climate so its certainly possible to do the Kumano Kodo whenever it is convenient for you. You should consider that the Typhoon season is at its peak in August and September and part of the Nakahechi Route was permanently destroyed by a particularly strong typhoon in 2011. It also can be unbearably hot and humid during the summer months. Most walk in the early Spring and late Fall. I walked in mid- February and enjoyed perfect hiking conditions with walking temperatures ranging from mid 40's to mid 50's F.

Why Do The Kumano Kodo?

I am sure there are as many reasons to do the Kumano Kodo as there are pilgrims that have walked its routes. However, calling the Kumano Kodo a Pilgrimage only is a bit short-sighted for it is so much more. There are sacred sites and statues dating from the 10th century lining the Kumano Kodo as it is considered the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan. There is unbelievable natural beauty along the route. You'll encounter locals along the way and be enriched for the grace and hospitality they will bestow on you. Lest I forget, the local food is extremely delicious. There certainly is a great feeling of accomplishment for completing these difficult hiking routes too.

I will definitely cover my personal reasons for walking the Kumano Kodo in a future blog post.