My 2015 Review - What a truly amazing year

Here's How 2015 Started

As somewhat of an annual tradition, 2015 began with an absolutely amazing meal featuring an Asian Continental menu from one of my most adored restaurants which also earned it's second Michelin star in 2015. Also an annual tradition: I donned a suit and favoured bow-tie. One more annual tradition: I pedaled my Dutch City Bike there despite the windchill being -5F. Another annual tradition: I felt a bit smug knowing I was not subjected to $100+ Uber fares like the rest of my dining companions. One final annual tradition: I always have a cocktail or wine from a planned travel adventure. For 2015, that was Africa. The Sommelier suggested a South African Single Malt which they happened to carry. I enjoyed a Three Ships 10 yr Single Malt from James Sedgwick which was sublime.

I biked home and poured a glass of Cava as midnight drew nigh. They say who you are with and what you do as the New Year starts will be very important to you throughout the year. I put on my Basset Hound sidekick extraordinaire Sweetpea's leash and 'allegedly' carried my glass of Cava down to the local Dog Park. Woof.

With my alma mater South Carolina already chalking up their bowl win, I enjoyed my traditional meal of Collard Greens, Black Eye Peas, Ham and Pot Likker Soup for a fortuitous 2015.

My 2015 Goals

I crafted a 3-5 year Life Plan a few years ago. I review my progress quarterly and update it annually. This is based on truly living life and going after what I really want in life. OK, you're probably curious as to what that is:

• I want to live and be present in a spirit of happiness - not from a point to always seeking it through things or some perceived unmet need. 
• I want acknowledgement, validation and appreciation. 
• I want to positively impact others.
• I want to minister to animals.

From the above, I defined goal dimensions, priorities and action steps.

The end result are these 2015 goals.

My 2015 Goals

How Did I Do?

Smashingly well. I attribute my success to taking the time for inward reflection and understanding what it really important to me. I spent my days doing such and so I spent a year of my life doing such. It truly is very fulfilling.  Here's some highlights.

Complete a Race on Every Continent

I finished all the World Major Marathons (Berlin, Boston, Chicago, London, New York and Tokyo) in 2014 so I set a goal to run a race of any distance on all 7 continents. I chose the Victoria Falls Half Marathon  for 2015. That goal scared me a bit to be honest. I had never been to Africa before. I wasn't sure where the money would be sourced. But I set the goal. The money did come. I enjoyed a very life-enriching travel adventure which I am sure will appear one day when my life plays before my eyes. I also raised much needed funds for Paws Chicago as a charity runner. I was proud of myself for doing this.

Explore the World - Spiritual Pilgrimage

In December 2014, I felt called to hike the Kumano Kodo in Japan.  Like my African goal, I wasn't sure where the money would be sourced. I set the goal. The money did come. I went in February, 2015. It was a brilliant journey of tranquil mediation and personal growth. There was also excellent cuisine and housing with the locals. I was also featured in a press conference and celebrated by the Japanese for an accomplishment.

I also discovered and felt called to hike the newly launched Cape Camino in South Africa when I was there for my race on every continent adventure. It too was an absolutely amazing experience. The South African people I encountered were absolutely amazing. The food and wine. Wow.

Quantitative Software Development

I've honed in on my vocational passion. I am fascinated with exploring data and seeing what it can tell you. I completed heavily quantitative coursework in Data Science and Machine Learning from MIT, Johns Hopkins, Stanford and U of Washington. I traveled to NYU for a weeklong intensive and heavily quantitative seminar on Advanced Risk and Portfolio Management. I know so much more about many things than I did at the start of 2015. Yay me.

Be a Good Dog Dad

Last, but not least - my trusty sidekick for 2015 was Sweetpea was an important aspect of my life. I wanted to really make her a priority. I am happy to say I did. We walked a few miles most every day and went to a local dog park 1-3x most every day as well. She is good company and brings so much to my life.

My Favorite Things in 2015

Here is some highlights of my amazing year.

Best Meals

Casual and Local

Jibek Jolu is one of the few restaurants in the country serving authentic cuisine from Kyrgyzstan in the country. This is a family owned BYOB place. They care about the food they serve. My very good friend Tatiana took me there. She speaks the language. Suffice it to say, we had outstanding service and the best food on the menu. It truly deserves favored meal status. I rode my bike there.

Michelin Star Experience Local

The restaurant earned 2 Michelin Stars in its first 10 months. Food and Wine awarded Best New Chef to Jake Bickelhaupt. Was there anywhere else that was worthy of my birthday celebration other than 42 grams? Not only a top 2015 meal but also makes my "Top 10 Meals of My Life" list. I also rode my bike there.

Casual and International

Sarashina Horii (3-11-4 Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046 Tokyo, Japan). Masaharu Morimoto took Anthony Bourdain here during the Tokyo episode of No Reservations. Sarashina Horii first opened in 1789 with its claim to fame being its soba. It's clearly stood the test of time. Locals love it today. It did not disappoint.

Fine Dining International

Inside Zimbabwe's grandest hotel is one of the world's most distinguished restaurants: The Livingston Room which was honored as a Top 10 Hotel Restaurant in the World. It is a distinct nod to Zimbabwe's colonial days with tuxedo clad servers who know your name before you arrive. The service was impeccable and the food even better.

Best Sports Moments

Most of my sports teams have experienced life-long futility. There did not disappoint.

The Chicago Blackhawks Win the Stanley Cup

The Blackhawks were expected to be good but they entered the Stanley Cup as arguably the 5th best team in the Western Conference. They won it all. Sweetpea got to attend her 3rd Stanley Cup Parade. The Cup made it to a bar below my place. It was spectacular to be a fan.

Phenomenal Seasons by Chicago Cubs and Carolina Panthers

Honorable mention definitely goes to the Chicago Cubs who definitely exceeded expectations to make the playoffs and then beat the hated St Louis Cardinals in the NLDS. They'll be even stronger in 2016. All the Carolina Panthers did was string together a ridiculous 18 game winning streak which is 3rd longest in NFL history. They went 56 weeks between losing a game. Can't wait for the NFL Playoffs.

My 2016 Goals

So what does 2016 have in store for me? My 2016 Goals look almost exactly like my 2015 Goals. I have just changed the Importance and Urgency of them.

My 2016 Goals

Complete a Race on Every Continent

I am planning on running the Gold Coast Marathon for my Oceania race. I also plan to run the Hamburg Marathon as a Chicago Sister City Ambassador to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of my first marathon. I also am going to run the Chicago Marathon.

Quantitative Software Development

I plan to complete my Data Science and Machine Learning certifications in 2016.

Move Daily - More Yoga, Less Running

I am going to make a higher priority of integrating yoga into my life in 2016.

It's Going to Be An Amazing Year

Long story short, I intend to become more loving. I intend to become more learned. I intend to explore more of this great planet. I open my heart completely to all of these experiences.

I am going to enjoy this ride.

A Feast of Seven Fishes Makes for a Joyous Christmas Eve

A Christmas Eve Tradition 

The Feast of Seven Fishes is an Italian tradition that is believed to have originated in Southern Italy. It is typically celebrated with a large gathering in accordance with the Catholic feast known simply as The Vigil (La Vigilia). This celebration commemorates the wait, the Vigilia di Natale, for the midnight birth of the baby Jesus.

I am not Italian. I am not Catholic. I am single so my large gathering usually consists of my beloved Basset Hound and a friend or two. So why do I love it? It is rather complicated. Actually, it isn't. I have a passion for cooking. I love good food and wine. It's festive and fun!

My Basset Hound does not appreciate the nuances of a roast Blue Point oyster. My friend doesn't like seafood. I am many things and flexible is one of them. 

I have the Feast of One Petite Filet Mignon for my friend and the Feast of One Bowl of Mixed Grill and Vegetables for my Basset Hound.

For me, I am a staunch believer in a long celebration. I usually start the festivities around 4pm with the first course and finish around midnight. 

Feast of Seven Fishes

Some simply do a seven course meal with a few fishes intermixed with a few non-fish dishes. Heresy, I say. I do seven fishes or none at all. Remember though, you are aiming for seven courses so be prepared to reduce these recipes, invite more friends or have plenty of storage containers.

Course One - Gravlax with Lemony Dill Mustard Sauce

This is an exceptionally nice starter. I prepare the sauce a day in advance so allow additional time for the flavors to meld but you do not have to do so. I also use the gravlax for my Christmas Brunch. Here's a recipe you can use for inspiration. As with everything, the key is to use fresh, organic ingredients.

Course Two - Roast Oysters

I have the oven set to Roast before I prepare the first course so that I can roast the oysters while I enjoy my first course. I typically pair the first few courses with a nice sparkling wine or perhaps a Spanish Albarino. Here's a recipe you can use for inspiration. You'll need a shucker and gloves to keep from making this your final course before a visit to your local Urgent Care!

Course Three - Pan-Seared Squid with Lemony Aioli and Greens

Note the theme for the first few courses - very quick to prepare and with sauces that can be prepared a day in advance and fish that also requires minimal cook time. This is a stunning salad. Squid is wonderful when seared. You can use any greens you choose. I prefer some that I don't tend to eat regularly to make this a special course. I accent with edible flowers. Here's a recipe for you.

Course Four - Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Chile, Cilantro and Lime

Here's where I usually take it up a notch. This is an opportunity for an Instagram-worthy plate photo as well as a chance to impress your guests or in my case, myself! Note that you can use any center-cut filet such as cod or salmon. You can also use a crustacean if you wish. Here is a recipe to inspire you. I usually pair this and remaining courses with a top notch Pinot Noir however a hearty, full-bodied white will do. 

Course Five - Tagliatelle with Diver Scallops and Clams over Shaved Parma

It's Christmas Eve, not some random Tuesday in April. Use homemade or fresh pasta if at all possible. Also bring out the best shaved parmesan. Here is a recipe to inspire you. You may find yourself hitting the culinary wall here, but do press on.

Course Six - The Most Amazing Cioppino 

You will wow yourself with this one. Trust me. I have found that it is best to make the broth 24-48 hours ahead to really give the flavors a chance to meld. The remainder of the fish stew is then prepared rather quickly which is good considering you've probably had a good bit of wine and it is well into the evening hour. I make this recipe in large enough quantity to have leftovers. It does get better the next day. Here is a recipe to get you started. I typically use Bay Scallops, Cod, Clams and Shrimp but you can use any fish you wish!

Course Seven - Eel With Olives, Chiles, and Capers

I admit eel can be a tough sell, but you will be sold once you have had it. Also, get your fishmonger to skin and gut it as this is by far the most difficult task in preparation I think. It will be worth your effort though as this, my friends, is the most traditional dish of all. Here is a recipe for you.

If you are unsure about the eel or don't live near a trusted fishmonger, I have been known to substitute a nice lobster tail for this course.

There you have it. You've made it to the finish line. It's probably pushing midnight and you are absolutely stuffed to the gills. (Pun definitely intended). Lastly, just remember that this is what Italians eat when they are fasting.

Feast of One Bowl of Mixed Grill and Vegetables

We should not forget that animals welcomed Christ our Savior into our world. For that reason, I always include my beloved Basset Hound in the celebration. This is a simple, delicious and nutritious dog-friendly meal you can share with your beloved hound. Disclaimer - Check with your vet or trusted nutritional advisor as to whether these foods are safe for your canine.

1/3 pound Ground Beef, (Buffalo or Wagyu Beef if you wish)

1 carrot chopped

1 cup broccoli

1 medium sweet potato chopped

1/3 cup Basmati or Brown Rice

1 cup of water

You can simply put all ingredients in a slow cooker. Set on Low for 6 hours to overnight. Let cool. Serve in a festive bowl. Optionally add a tablespoon of yogurt, teaspoon of coconut oil and a little chopped fresh parsley.

Eric's fabulous Thanksgiving Menu 2015 and Sweetpea's too

Happy USA Thanksgiving to one and all that celebrate. I plan on making a fabulous feast for humans and also my beloved Basset Hound Sweetpea. I thought I would share for others that may be seeking inspiration on what to whip up themselves.

A Thanksgiving Feast for Humans

This year, I decided to mix things up a bit and highlight my menu with this smoky, sweet and beer-drunk turkey from chef George Mendes of two of my favorite New York City restaurants Aldea and Lupulo. I also intend to include classics I have enjoyed from previous Thanksgivings.

Shavings of Country Ham With Parmesan, Pears and Pine Nuts

Specific details of this and the Scallop recipe can be found at Wine Spectator.

Prep Time: 15 minutes  Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients

1/2 pound block of best-quality Parmesan cheese

12 very thin slices of country ham (preferably Virginia) cut into wide ribbons

1 ripe pear (I prefer Asian), halved and cored (unpeeled)

1 bunch baby arugula, washed and stemmed

1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Cracked black pepper to taste

Directions

Roast pine nuts in a hot saute pan for a few seconds to lightly brown. Using a vegetable peeler or cheese slicer, shave the Parmesan into "ribbons." Intertwine a few ribbons of cheese and ham on each of six plates to form a small, fluffy mound. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, slice the pear as thinly as possible. Add a few pear slices to each mound of cheese and ham. Over each plate, toss a few leaves of baby arugula, sprinkle pine nuts and drizzle extra-virgin olive oil. Garnish with cracked black pepper. 

Sesame-Dusted Maine Diver's Scallop on Cauliflower Puree

Cauliflower Puree

1 small Idaho potato, peeled and roughly chopped

2 cups cauliflower florets

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 tablespoon butter

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

Place the potato in a pot of cold, salted water. Bring to a boil, add the cauliflower and cook until the vegetables are very soft, about 7 to 10 minutes. Drain well. Using a food processor, puree the potato and cauliflower, scraping down the sides with a rubber spatula as needed. Add the cream, butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg and process.

Scallops

6 large, fresh sea scallops

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup whole black sesame seeds or minced black truffle

2 tablespoons clarified butter

Soak the scallops in ice water for 3 minutes. Dry the scallops on paper towels, season with salt and pepper, and roll the scallops in the sesame seeds or truffle to coat on all sides.

In a nonstick pan, heat the clarified butter over medium-high heat. Carefully add the coated scallops to the hot pan and cook until they are golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Do not overcook.

Portuguese Roast Turkey

Specific details on this recipe can be found at Tasting Table.

Prep Time: 30 minutes + Brining and Marinating  Cook Time: 2.5 to 3 hours.  Servings: 4 to 6

Spiced Brine

(This can be made and stored in the refrigerator up to 5 days in advance.) 

6 quarts (24 cups) water

6 cups sugar

4 cups kosher salt

12 cloves

8 pieces star anise

6 bay leaves, torn in half

3 cinnamon sticks

3 tablespoons white peppercorns

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

In a large pot, combine the brine ingredients and place over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sugar and salt have dissolved, 20-30 minutes or more. Remove from the heat and bring to room temperature.  Chill in the fridge until needed,

Spicy Paprika Marinade

(This can be made and stored in the refrigerator up to 5 days in advance.) 

3 cups olive oil

1½ cups lager (such as Sagres)

3 tablespoons Spanish sweet paprika

½ yellow onion, thinly sliced

7 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 fresh bay leaves, torn

In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients and pulse 5-10 times until all ingredients are thoroughly mixed. You can do this in a medium size bowl and whisk ingredients optionally.

Turkey

One 10-to-12-pound turkey, giblets removed and neck reserved

2 red onions, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1½-inch pieces

2 bay leaves, torn

1 tablespoon kosher salt

¼ cup marinade set aside for basting

Directions

1. Rinse the turkey and neck. Double check that neck and giblets are removed. Brine the turkey. Use a clean 5-gallon pot, bucket or brine bag. I use an XL plastic bag intended to store clothes. Pour the chilled brine over the turkey and top with a heavy plate, submerging the turkey. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours.
2.  Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse under cold water. Discard the brine. Rinse out the 5-gallon container and return the turkey to it. Set aside 1/4 cup of marinade for basting. Pour the paprika marinade over the turkey, rubbing all over the outside and the inner cavity; cover and chill in refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours.
3. Adjust the rack to the lower third of the oven, and preheat it to 400°F.
4. Cut off the turkey's wing tips, reserving them, and tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Combine the turkey neck, wing tips, red onions, carrots and bay leaves in a large roasting pan. Place the turkey on top, breast-side up, and rub with the salt and ¼ cup of the marinade.
5.  Roast the turkey in the preheated oven until the skin is browned, 40 to 50 minutes, basting the bird and rotating the pan halfway through roasting, covering any dark spots with aluminum foil.
6. Lower the oven to 300°. Baste the turkey with marinade and pour 1 cup of water into the pan, creating steam to help cook the turkey. Continue to roast the turkey, rotating the pan and basting every 30 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reaches just under 160°, 1½ to 2 hours. Remove the turkey from the oven and let it rest in the roasting pan for 30 minutes before carving. 
7. You can optionally make a sublime gravy by adding finely chopped ginger root to the pan drippings. Serve this with roasted veggies.

Celery Root Puree

I have made this on several past Thanksgivings to rave reviews. I love to use ingredients that you tend not to use everyday and this deliciously fits the bill. Specific details on this recipe can be found here.

Prep Time: 10 minutes  Cook Time: 15 minutes  Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients

1 large celery root, about 2 lb. peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice

1 large russet potato, about 6 oz.  peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice

About 3 cups chicken stock or water

4 Tbs. (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter

6 Tbs. heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 to 2 Tbs. chopped fresh chives

Truffle oil for drizzling (optional)

Directions

1. In a saucepan over high heat, combine the celery root and potato with stock to cover by 1 to 2 inches. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-high and cook at a rolling boil until the vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes, adding more stock if needed to keep the vegetables immersed. Drain the vegetables, reserving the stock for soup or a sauce, if desired. Pass the vegetables through a ricer or a food mill fitted with the fine disk. You can use a Mashing Tool instead of a food mill or ricer as I do.
3. Return the puree to the pan, place over very low heat and add the butter, beating it into the hot vegetables with a wooden spoon. Add the cream and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. 
4. Sprinkle with the chives and drizzle with truffle oil. Serve immediately.

Brussels Sprouts Confit with Slab Bacon

Duck Far, Brussels Sprouts and Bacon. Need I say more. 

Prep Time: 10 minutes  Cook Time: 20 minutes  Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients

4 cups (1 1/4 pounds) halved and trimmed Brussels sprouts 

8 ounces slab bacon, diced 

Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Rendered Duck Fat sets this dish up nicely (optionally) or EVOO

Directions

1. Blanch the Brussels sprouts in salted boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain.
2. Cook the bacon until crispy with the fat completely rendered out. Cut bacon into small bite-sized pieces.
3. Add Brussels spouts, bacon and duck fat into saute pan and place into oven at 300-350*F for 10 min.
4. Swirl Brussels spouts mixture to make sure all sides are evenly cooked. Place in oven until browned about 10 min more.

Thanksgiving Feast for Your Canine Companion

Mixed Grill with Root Vegetable Ragoût

Prep Time: 10 minutes  Cook Time: 8 hours crockpot low heat  Servings: Depends

1-2 lb of Chicken thighs or legs (bone or boneless is fine)

1 lb Butternut or Acorn Squash chopped into 1 in squares

1 Sweet potato

1 cup Brown Rice

1/2 lb Green Beans chopped 

2 cups carrots chopped

4 cups of water

Directions

1. Put chicken and 3 cups of water in crockpot. Let it heat 30 min on low heat
2. Add remaining ingredients 1 at a time and top off with remaining cup of water.
3. Give your pup a belly rub, take her to the dog park, take a well-deserved rest. Maybe all of the above. That's it. Just let this simmer for 8 hours or so and a delicious pup-approved feast is ready to be served.

Very important - Remove meat from bones. Do NOT feed your dog the bones. Serve in a festive bowl. Consider garnishing with a tablespoon of yogurt and a small pinch dog-friendly herbs - parsley, oregano, rosemary, basil and peppermint. Definitely garnish with a heaping dose of love!  

More American Musings - The Good, Bad And Ugly Of All Things Japanese

You Will Love the Japanese People

The Japanese, like every nationality in the world, certainly do not all conform to a unified system of behavior, thought or ideology. Regardless, here are some traits I and others before me have observed when visiting Japan.

If there were Nobel Prizes awarded to citizenry, the Japanese would have the Hospitality, Graciousness and Friendliness awards wrapped up. I encountered unbelievable kindness from the Japanese people in Tokyo and throughout the Kii Mountain Range. I will definitely cover specific personal experiences in future blog posts.

The Japanese are also largely extremely punctual which is in contrast with western standards. If you have a meeting with a Japanese friend or colleague, adjust your travel time to accommodate this. If delays are unavoidable, communicate as best as possible your anticipated arrival time even if you are just going to be 5 minutes late.

You will find a high degree of honor and honesty amongst the Japanese people. One of the things that stood out to me in this matter was the lack of bicycle locks. From Tokyo to small villages, bikes are a common mode of transport. Oddly, you won't see too many of them locked up. If there is a lock, it is a small cable that provides minimal security. This is a stark contrast to Chicago where I typically use 2-3 locks with the primary lock being highest security and the other 2 being medium to high security too.

You will find some, but not much English spoken along the Kii Mountain Range. It is advised that you learn basic Japanese travel and courtesy phrases. I used this free website. You can and should subsidize this with a quality Voice Translation app on your smartphone. The one I really like is Voice Translation by Axismobinc which is available on both Android and iPhone. I found the Japanese people are accustomed to using these to bridge the language gap.

You Will Also Love the Transportation System

The Japanese Rail system is one of the, if not the most advanced rail systems in the world. It is fast, clean and prompt to the minute. In fact, announcements are made to apologize for a delay as little as 30 seconds. The rail authority will even issue tickets of delay explanation to its users to excuse tardiness. 

It's highly recommended that you purchase a Japan Rail Pass. These must be purchased in your home country before you arrive in Japan. A 7 day pass will cost less than a roundtrip ticket from Tokyo to the Kii Mountain Range area. Most tourists purchase the regular pass. I like to spend a little extra for the Green First Class pass. The cost is very small relative to the cost of your trip and the benefits are definitely worth it.

Likewise, Tokyo has arguably the world's best subway and train system. The trains run frequently, are clean and are equally prompt. Note that the trains stop at midnight so you should plan your late night activities accordingly. You should also spring for a Suica or Pasmo card to make using the train / subway that much easier and efficient. These are not required but trust me, there are headaches and inefficiencies associated with not using them most notably that a paper ticket purchased to enter one subway line might not work to use another subway line in Tokyo. I've used the train with and without. I will never use the train without again.

There are Tokyo subway apps but the best method to navigate is Google Maps.

You Will Have to Adjust to a Largely Cash-Based Society

The Japanese banking system simply stated is not integrated with the international banking system. The Japanese people do not like using their banks either. These banks charge exhorbitantly high customer fees for almost every transaction possible. The end result is that the Japanese operate in a largely cash-based society. They can even opt to receive their company pay in cash.

This has ramifications for the westerner. Namely, ATM's are scarce. You will almost certainly have to use the ATM found in every Post Office while in the Kii Mountain Range. You can find an ATM in the Post Office, some 7-11's and some train / subway stations in Tokyo or larger cities.

You should also expect to pay cash for all your Kii Mountain Range accommodations, transportation, food and other purchases regardless of cost or quality.

Credit / Debit cards are more readily accepted in Tokyo and larger cities but you still should be prepared to pay cash for most things outside of your hotel accommodations.

It is also highly recommended to notify your banking and credit card institutions that you will be in Japan before you leave to prevent your cards from being frozen for suspicion of fraudulent activity.

You Will Be Appalled at the Public Smoking

Japan's tobacco industry is largely government owned and their smoking laws and attitudes are easily 30+ years behind the rest of the modern world. I don't think the "Smoking causes cancer" concept has caught on over there. Smoking is pervasive and you will have to actively seek out non-smoking options for dining, drinking and entertainment.

Fortunately, I did not experience troublesome smoking in the Kii Mountain Range area on my Kumano Kodo. 

You won't be so lucky in Tokyo or other larger cities. Fortunately there are options and there are smoke-free Tokyo website resources that can direct you to better bars and restaurants.

There may be hope for a smoke-free Japan. There is a strong push to host a smoke-free Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games.

An American's Musings on The Kumano Kodo and Japan

The Big Question First - What Is The Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo is a 1000 year Shinto Buddhist Pilgrimage trek through the Kii Mountain Range in southern Japan. It is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage treks on this planet. The other is the Camino de Santiago in Spain. While largely unknown to the western world, it is said to be one of the most naturally beautiful treks in the world. It consists of a network of seven pilgrimage routes with the Nakahechi route being the most popular. It can be a challenging multi-day trek or a series of short single day walks supplemented with bus or boat transport.

Where Is and How Do I Get To The Kumano Kodo?

The Kii Mountain Range is a bit south of Kyoto and Osaka. You can expect it to take a good 7 hours by train from Tokyo to get to the start of the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo. You'll take a Shinkansen (Bullet train) from the Tokyo station of choice to Shin Osaka and then transfer to a Limited Express train toTanabe City's KiiTanabe train station. Local buses run from the train station and take about 45 min to Takijiri-oji, the entrance of Kumano Kodo and beginning of the Nakahechi route.

You should definitely purchase a Japan Rail Pass. A 7-Day Pass is less expensive than purchasing a round-trip ticket from Tokyo. You must purchase the Rail Pass in your home country before leaving for Japan though. I personally always spring for the Green First Class Pass. It really isn't that expensive in context of your trip. You get much more space in your seat and the train cars are also much less crowded.

HyperDia is the Japan Rail Schedule website. There is also an accompanying mobile app for your smartphone.

Local bus schedules and much more are available at the Kumano Kodo Tourism website. 

When Should I Do The Kumano Kodo?

The Kii Mountain Range has a temperate climate so its certainly possible to do the Kumano Kodo whenever it is convenient for you. You should consider that the Typhoon season is at its peak in August and September and part of the Nakahechi Route was permanently destroyed by a particularly strong typhoon in 2011. It also can be unbearably hot and humid during the summer months. Most walk in the early Spring and late Fall. I walked in mid- February and enjoyed perfect hiking conditions with walking temperatures ranging from mid 40's to mid 50's F.

Why Do The Kumano Kodo?

I am sure there are as many reasons to do the Kumano Kodo as there are pilgrims that have walked its routes. However, calling the Kumano Kodo a Pilgrimage only is a bit short-sighted for it is so much more. There are sacred sites and statues dating from the 10th century lining the Kumano Kodo as it is considered the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan. There is unbelievable natural beauty along the route. You'll encounter locals along the way and be enriched for the grace and hospitality they will bestow on you. Lest I forget, the local food is extremely delicious. There certainly is a great feeling of accomplishment for completing these difficult hiking routes too.

I will definitely cover my personal reasons for walking the Kumano Kodo in a future blog post.