The Epistles of an American Expat and Global Citizen running around the world one adventure at a time. I cook. I eat. I drink. I walk my dogs. I take pictures. Then I write about the humor in it all. I hope it gets you laughing too.
25 days, 516 km / 320 mi, Cities, Villages, Pueblos, Plains, Hills, Mountains, Ocean, Alburgues, Hostels, Pensions, Hotels, One "Best Hotel in the World", Sunny, Cool, Warm, Rain, Torrential Rain, Snow, Sleet, Blizzard, Dogs, Cats, Cows, Bulls, Horses, Sheep, Wolves, Bears, Hens, Roosters, Donkeys, Ducks, Geese, Storks, Medieval Bridges, Soccer Players, Templar Knights, Bartenders, Award-winning Chefs, Sommeliers, more than a few lost souls and even some fellow Pilgrims encountered. These were all part of an amazing life-affirming and life-changing adventure that I experienced as I successfully walked across Northern Spain alone in the dead of winter. This was my Camino de Santiago.
The Camino de Santiago is a very personal journey; A Medieval Christian Pilgrimage to the Cathedral in Santiago (Galicia) that has the earthly remains of the Apostle James who was one of Jesus' most trusted friends. Pilgrims have walked the Camino for over 1000 years for a variety of reasons. Once one successfully completes the Pilgrimage, their name is entered into the official records alongside all that came before them with the reason for their journey.
My official reason was "Religión y Otras Razones" (Religion and Other Reasons). Simply stated, I came seeking spiritual answers. I found them. I came seeing if I had the mental fortitude to hike alone for days on end in a variety of weather. I got up every day and I did. I came seeing if I had the physical ability to hike with a 12 kg / 25 pound backpack over such a long distance with diverse terrain. I dropped 130,000+ calories, dropped 12 kg / 25 pounds and I did.
So today I finally arrived in Santiago de Compostela. I would like to tell you that I completed my pilgrimage in a somber and humble manner. I didn't. I strutted with a smile on my face as wide as can be. Sure I was very thankful for God delivering me on a safe journey but I was immensely proud of myself for listening to the signs to "Just Do It", to take that first step so many days earlier and to keep on going day in and day out. My motto was "Fíese de que el Camino proporcionará" (Trust that the Camino will provide). It did with daily miracles that were there for those who had eyes to see them.
The Eric who started the Camino is not the Eric who finished the Camino. I made myself physically, mentally & spiritually vulnerable to God out there. I emerged a better person because of this. El Camino fue solo el principio; Mi viaje continua (The Camino is only the beginning; My journey continues).
I began my day with mixed emotions. I was cautiously nervous heading up a big mountain pass by myself knowing I could find myself in a number of life threatening situations from snow, cold, and wildlife. Help would not be close at hand. I also was a bit melancholy that today was the last ascent of a major mountain pass. I enjoyed the mountains for their serene beauty as well as the sense of accomplishment that came from climbing them.
I'll soon leave rain for the snow
I would have time to contemplate all of the things going through my head as I still had to cover 5km / 3.1 mi through the valley before the path turned upward. I passed through several medieval hamlets before arriving in Hospital Ingles, a village dating from 1178.
To my pleasant surprise, there was a bar / cafe open. That is a highly unusual thing to find on a in Spain especially in such a small hamlet. I went in and got a cafe con leche and a seat by the fire before beginning the rest of my day which would be straight up a mountain into the snow.
18th Century San Andres Church near La Faba
An Angel in Human Form
I climbed for about an hour or so until I reached the small hamlet of La Faba. I stopped to admire the church when I hear some noise. To my surprise, Salvatrice (Salvation in Italian) from Rome was walking up the Camino near the church in the picture. I last encountered Salvatrice on my very first day on the Camino when I was in serious need of assistance and shelter. She rescued me that day, led me to shelter and told me how I could get food.
This time I felt Christian love, warmth and a sense of fellowship seeing her again. I had not seen a single soul on The Camino to date. We chatted a bit. She asked if I was alright. I replied that I was. I did notice she was dressed rather oddly for someone trekking a long distance. I also took note that it was very unusual not to have seen her at all over the previous 18 days. I took note that she appeared on the morning I mentally thought about the possible danger of today's trek. I told her I was going to stop into this small albergue cafe before we encountered the snow and steeper portion. She declined and said she was walking onward. I never saw Salvatrice again. Taking all these observations into account along with a few others which I will share later I am confident I encountered an Angel in human form on The Way of Saint James. It was pretty neat and I felt divinely protected as I trekked upward.
And Very Cool Refugio
Cool Refugio in La Faba
I stopped into the refugio (Very basic hostel) cafe before the final and most difficult stretch of the day. I met the most gracious host in a German / Galician guy named Hanz. He told me about how was 23 and was tending to the place over the winter. He was a self-sustaining farmer besides an innkeeper. I know the unemployment rate in Spain is near 50% for people like Hanz and thus I felt compelled to minister to him by spending money. I wasn't terribly hungry but he offered lunch and drink. He brought out some incredible warm homemade bread and cheese from his farm. They both were off the chart good with deep, complex flavors. I also drank a nice house wine and coffee. I asked "Cuanto es" (How much?) and he told me a donation would suffice. I gave him 5 euro which is the going rate for a bed in a place like this but I still felt like I underpaid. He insists on giving me change. I refuse. He is so incredibly thankful that he insists I also take some kiwi. I could not refuse him. We both were made happy with that encounter.
Above the tree line and into the snow zone after La Faba
Enter the Snow
I walked out of La Faba and the conditions changed very quickly as I entered the snow zone. At first there were gently flurries and only a dusting of snow on the ground. Next was beautiful heavy flakes and 7 cm / 2-3 in of snow on the Camino. Finally it turned absolutely beastly with over 30 cm / 12 " of snow on the ground and very limited visibility leaving no visual clues to The Camino versus a fall to a likely death. I made a point to stay as far away from the trail edge as possible.
Weather Was Now Beastly
And Evidence of a Wolf
As I gained elevation I became further from civilization. I knew there were bears up here as well as other forms of wildlife. I made a point to be as loud of possible to lessen my chance of an encounter. And then I looked down and exclaimed to myself "Whoa, that is a fresh wolf track in the snow." Intellectually I know that wolves in Spain associate humans as very bad news and the most likely scenario is that the wolf heard me long ago and was increasing his distance between me and him / her. I was fairly certain I was not being stalked but having such a reminder that I am really in the wilderness was a bit sobering to say the least. This is really an area where people need to be rescued or die.
The Border of the Province Galicia
Entering Galicia
I soon came to the marker signaling that I had entered Galicia. This was an exciting landmark as Galicia was the final Province on my Pilgrimage. I also knew I closing in on O Cebreiro and the security of civilization Seeing this lifted my spirits considerably and I felt far less isolated than moments ago when I was out of deep snow with fresh wolf tracks.
Rock Fences Mean People - O Cebreiro
Strange Noises Ahead
Pretty soon I began hearing something very much out of place in the wilderness. It sounded like lots of people playing. I knew nothing about what to expect in O Cebreiro. The last mountain pass summit village, Foncebadon, was desolate with maybe 10 people living there. I thus had no expectations for O Cebreiro.
The rounded a pass and the Camino soon leveled. I also noticed a nice rock fence and trees that were clearly forested. This was a sign of civilization and the noises also became more pronounced and louder. There were definitely many people outside.
Civilization and Snow Pilgrims
I entered the village and was very pleasantly surprised. O Cebreiro was somewhat of a snow resort. There were taverns, restaurants, B&B's and a large Winter Sports hill. The place was the most busy hamlet I encountered on the entire Camino. It was a medieval village with ancient charm but resembled the hustle and bustle of a ski village.I secured a room in a quaint B&B. I gasp had to make a reservation for a late lunch because the place had a Wait List.
O Cebreiro was a quaint village with a rich history. It dates from the 9th century. The Holy Grail was hidden here. It is noted for its architecture. It is predominated with low, oval stone houses with hugging thatch roofs. This palloza style dates back to Celtic times.
I walked around the village and got my Pilgrim Credential stamp from the local medieval church. I settled down in my warm room which was nice because the wind chills would fall below 0*F outside.
My Tunes for the Day
The Verve "Bittersweet Symphony" was an excellent companion as I trekked up this mountain. It's been a favorite of mine ever since it has been on my endurance training playlist. The song has gotten me though many a long run or trainer ride. It has very pleasant association of endurance accomplishment. I now associate it with accomplishing the climb up a Camino High Mountain Pass.
12th Century Medieval Bridge Leading Out of Villafranca
Easy or Freakin' Cool
I awoke well-rested and happy to be in a hostel that had a lovely view of the river and breakfast included. It was a very nice way to start the day.
The day would offer me a choice. I could either take the "Camino Lite" or the "True Pilgrim" route. The Camino Lite route took the valley road. This was flat, steady terrain and was 1.5 km / 1 mi shorter. It certainly was more prudent.
I took the high road out of Villafranca
The True Pilgrim was vertical from the start. It was uphill, uneven, wet and slippery terrain for 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent followed by a gnarly, almost straight 2 km / 1.25 mi treacherous descent. It would take about 2 hrs longer and it was raining steadily.
Guess which one I chose? My Guardian Angel told me to do epic stuff. Always go with an option described as gnarly in life.
Mountain Village of Trabadelo
The Cafe Free Summit
Although the province border of Leon extends to another day's walk, the village architecture and flavor are now pure Galician. They are smaller; more hamlets than village. They consist of a few stone houses clustered around a tiny stone church. The cow population increased. Stone fences divide land into smaller plots. The farmers and locals were quite friendly too.
After a few hours of strenuous climbing I arrived at the mountain top village of Trabadelo. I so desired a Pilgrim credential stamp to show I took this route and a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) to warm me up. There were signs along The Camino that suggested a cafe was open in the village. But alas after a walk through the charming hamlet I saw the cafe / bar was closed. I was devastated. I broke down in tears and wanted to quit my Camino. OK, I didn't. I really walked with this friendly farmer and his rather large horse back to his field / my Camino Trail.
Stone Church of Trabadelo
What Goes Up Comes Down
I arrived back on the Camino. The 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent would be followed by a very steep 2 km / 1.25 mi descent. The going was slow because every step had to be taken with care but time was of no essence. I enjoyed being present in the moment and enjoying the glorious valley views. I also felt very much alive for choosing the "True Pilgrim" route over "Camino Lite." It should also be noted that during medieval times the "Camino Lite" version was extremely dangerous with murderous thieves. However, those that chose the "True Pilgrim" route faced a financial mugging too. The Castle Auctares stood on the exit from Trabadelo and the lords supported themselves by taxing (eg extorting) the Pilgrims until King Alonso VI put a stop to the practice in 1072. As I always say, they were mugged just the same except there was no violence involved and the terms were usually known in advance.
Medieval Bridge Along Tranquil Vega de Valcare
Thou I Walk Through The Valley...
In this case, it was far more tranquility than death so no evil was remotely feared; just the next rain outburst. I had a short and very enjoyable walk for the final 5 km / 3.2 mi before the next day's climb into snow-capped mountains at altitude.
Angelic Messages Came Just The Same
Although the day was intentional short distance-wise, my Guardian Angel and Spirit Guides were present with plenty of uplifting messages. Some may see these as mere chance encounters of graffiti left by others. My world view does not believe in coincidences. Everything happens for a reason. There were no doubt thousands of messages like this on The Camino. I was placed in the right place at the right time to see these.
I felt my Camino calling and life path was affirmed.
I was in a very big life transition. I felt content that things would be ok.
This was the EXACT message my Guardian Angel gave on Day 1
Dogs serve as a message of God's love. I loved this guy!
Where Would I Sleep?
The Camino followed a busy interstate and eventually crossed paths with a hotel / restaurant / service station about 3 km / 2 mi from my planned destination. It was somewhat important I cover as much distance as possible today because the next day was going to be spent climbing a mountain.
I rested a bit with a Coke for energy before I went the final stretch which would take me into 3 hamlets that were very close together. It started to rain pretty heavy and I was thus eager to find a place to sleep. The first hamlet had nothing open. However I did encounter the sweetest German Shepherd who smiled and posed for my camera. I took this as another message that I was not alone on my journey here and would find shelter soon. I passed the second hamlet and nothing was open while the rain came down harder.
Small Chapel near Vega de Valcarce
My Options Were Bleak Until...
I finally came into the third hamlet. It was a dark and stormy night. It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. You know the literary devices so I will go no further. I was also starving. I looked and looked and looked - nothing.
I was going to walk up one more block before I would decide to walk the 3 km / 2 mi back to the known hotel. There was a hostel sign advertised. I came upon the hostel and it was closed tight. There was a hair salon next door though where a woman was cutting a man's hair. As I started to walk away I heard her calling me from afar. She opened the door for me which led to a nice albeit very empty albergue with bunk beds. She gladly accepted my 8 euros and I had a bed and an albergue all to myself. I then found a lovely warm shower too. All was well.
Once squared away, I walked into "town" to find a nice market open. It was Saturday and it is best practice to buy food for Sunday because you do not know if anything will be open on the Camino on a Sunday. I then found myself in the community bar next door. I enjoyed plenty of wine (eg nearly a bottle) and delicious tapas for all of only 4 euros.
I also was quite amused. I was in the bar with hill folk. There were hunting trophies and things like stuffed squirrels throughout the bar. Old men played cards at the tables. I wore REI clothing and Crocs. I ahem didn't blend. I imagine they got a kick out of the stranger too.
My Tunes for the Day
Lana Del Rey was all new to me. I purposely picked new records for my Camino experience to accompany my classic play lists. While a mountain valley in the northwest corner of Spain was about as far away from cruising down Hollywood and Vine as you could imagine, It was Saturday though and I loved listening to "Burning Desire" everyday of my Camino.
One of the benefits of a rest day is the chance to do very important things like wash and dry all your clothes. Most good gear will dry overnight but certain items such as Smartwool hiking socks need a good bit more than 12 hours to dry completely. I also had time to take care of some personal matters and make a guilty pleasure purchase - new Smartwool socks and glove liners. I also had time to take a long hot relaxing soak in the tub.
Another Camino mystery - Saint Amy Adams praying?
Another Camino Mystery
I came upon this outside of Ponferrada. Why was American actress Amy Adams praying for a hot chick who is holding a parrot and wearing a leopard spotted bra? Why is the woman wearing a toga pointing at her? I am sure there is a deep meaning in there somewhere; I am just not sure what it is! It did bring a smile to my face. Maybe that was the meaning.
My Guardian Angel Provided a Valuable Camino Lesson - Knock on Doors
Knock on Doors
My Guardian Angel introduced himself to me on Day 1 of my journey and gave me 10 life principles that I should learn / apply to my Camino experience and life journey. It was a surreal and meaningful happening. One of those was "Knock on More Doors. Opportunity Awaits but you have been timid to chase it at times."
It was a valuable lesson to learn and apply during the winter in Spain. Important needs on The Way of Saint James often were behind doors that appeared closed and locked by American standards and appearance. As I progressed I became more willing to approach seemingly closed buildings to see if they were in fact open. Had I not done so I would have slept outdoors in the cold of January and missed many meal opportunities. Today I really wanted a Pilgrim Credential stamp from the beautiful Basilica in Ponferrada. There are no signs "Get your credential stamp here!" flashing to lead the way. However there was a Catholic School attached to the Basilica. I saw what I thought to be a Head Master's office behind locked doors. I mustered up the courage to knock on that door. I spoke confidently in Spanish while presenting my Pilgrim credential. I got a warm "Buen Camino" and I got that stamp. I know I would not have done that on Day 1 of my Camino.
The Camino again is a metaphor for life and this lesson has deeper implications to my life than a stamp or a three-course meal. I have been bold in chasing personal goals be it an Ironman Triathlon or adventure trek but I have been hesitant to put myself out there at times in life. I have sometimes been unwilling or unable to ask for help when I needed it. I have often not approached others to communicate what I need. This weakness in me has hampered not only my life journey but other's who have crossed my path. My Guardian Angel as usual is loving and right. I do need to knock on more doors.
Templar Castle is said to contain Holy Secrets
Of Castles, Cravings and Pinxtos
The remainder of my rest day was spent leisurely sampling wine and pinxtos (tapas), visiting the small but worthwhile History Museum and of course the Templar Castle. The History Museum was surprisingly interesting. It had much Camino history and tombstones dating from the 1st century that were amazingly well-preserved. The Templar Castle is said to contain either secrets regarding the locations of the Ark of the Covenant and Holy Grail or perhaps the artifacts themselves. It had also had one of the most impressive library of medieval books albeit most were reproductions. I did not locate any Holy Secrets but I did get some amazing photos. A friend of mine commented that one looked like a decorative ladle. It actually was the view from an archer defensive opening within the castle.
Photo inside the Castle Walls
After 15 days of trekking I guess it is not unusual to get some cravings. What were mine? I was absolutely yearning for some Tex Mex food and interestingly enough the Camino did provide. What likely is the only Tex Mex restaurant in the whole of Spain happened to be on the Town Square just down from my hotel.
And after a night of guacamole, burritos, wine and pinxtos I returned to my hotel to pack my clean, dry clothes and get a good night's rest. The second big mountain pass awaits.
My Tunes for the Day
Dar Williams "Closer to Me" has always been meaningful to me. It speaks to my sense of adventure and self-discovery. I also chose it for the Memorial Service for my beloved fur-ever friends Beethoven the Wonder Dalmatian and LaSalle the Rescued Rottweiler / Lab mix. It brings memories of them and all the wonderful places I've seen with a back pack. It also fit right in with my Camino journey. I often found myself hitting Repeat on my iPod Shuffle.
And bringing chocolate.... One of the important things for a Pilgrim to remember is that Saint James' bones have been at rest for centuries. They will wait another day or two for your Santiago arrival. I was a day ahead of schedule and thought about taking an extra day in Astorga. I balanced that against my admittedly aggressive schedule over the potentially dangerous mountain passes and decided to press onward.
To give you some perspective on how others have noted the terrain on today's journey I offer a document dating from 1790:
The nature of the landscape is extremely rough and fearsome, and then from nearly the first of September until the end of May the pass is closed. The neighboring villages put up cairns to mark the route and if this is not sufficient, they dedicate themselves to guide, accompany, house and thaw out the poor pilgrims who insist on going to Galicia.
My trepidation was a bit justified as you can see. I decided against spending the extra day in Astorga in case I needed the extra day to get over the mountain but did not did rush out of town before stopping to visit the Cathedral. I prayed for strength and safe passage. Above all else, I knew I was divinely protected on my Camino but practically speaking I knew that no mortal soul had a "Get Out of Jail Free" card against gross stupidity. It was January and I diligently checked the weather before I proceeded into the eerily foggy day.
Entering Valdeviejas (Valley of The Old Women)
Change is the New Paradigm
The landscape, climate and townscape all changed kilometer by kilometer today. Perhaps the greatest change is the village architecture. The villages are now made of stone with roofs of locally mined slate or even thatch.
Frost begins above Valdeviejas
Fog and cool temperatures gradually give way to freezing temperatures and frost on the foliage. That foliage is more alpine and soon will give way to scrub bush as each step brings a gain in altitude. There is other change as well; positive change. I am feeling unexpected but welcome energy off the charts as I climb. I guess wine, good chocolate and prayer are the answers to all Camino needs.
Flecha (Arrow) pointing to Rabanel del Camino
Where I Need to Be
Like many Pilgrims before me, I started my journey with a detailed plan on an Excel spreadsheet. This plan included daily destinations, daily & accumulated distances as well as sunrise & sunset. I however have learned a very valuable life lesson through international travel, trekking and endurance racing adventures that things rarely go to plan and that is not only OK but very good. And so it is with The Camino. I learned it will take you where you need to be which is not necessarily the same place as where you planned to go.
Walking into my planned destination of Rabanel
I originally planned to go to Rabanel del Camino. I arrived at Rabanel when a trekking day typically ends and I was looking forward to getting my back pack and hiking boots off. Rabanel did not greet me as expected though. I encountered a deer carcas in the open picked clean by either a pack of wolves or wild dogs as I entered the village which was made all the more ominous with the thick foreboding fog. I entered the village and also found no sign of life. There was no cafe, no bar or no albergue welcoming me out of the cold and the territory of the whatever devoured that deer.
The Flecha (Arrow) led me where I needed to be - Foncebadon
I clearly felt the energy was screaming at me to move on but that choice was not without its risks either. I would chance being high on the side of the mountain in the dark and all the danger that represented. I would chance running into whatever picked that deer apart.
I walked onward still with the knowledge this was the right choice and possessing immense energy reserves. The Divine was letting me know I was needed in the next village of Foncebadon and not the Templar village of Rabanel. I left and headed up the mountain trail. What I found were very clear signs that God and His Angels were with me on this adventure. I also would find an answer to one of the spiritual matters put forth for my Camino.
A Very Clear Angelic Sign
Eric is Most Definitely Not Alone
I made my way up the mountain as the sun began to wane. To my grand surprise, I saw something that left me speechless. It was a beautiful and assuring Angelic message. I came upon an unattended table with painted rocks and a box that said "Donativo" (Donation). Yes, I found it a bit odd to see this out in the middle of nowhere so I naturally went to take a peak. On this small table in a place it should not be - the remote mountain wilderness of Northwestern Spain - was a painted rock with my name on it. What was so amazing about that you ask? "Eric" has no Spanish etymology. Keep in mind that the name "Eric" is of Scandinavian origin, so there's not even a Spanish equivalent. And here in a region where few if anybody spoke any English was a rock with my name on it. There was no other non-Spanish name on the table. This very much out of place painted rock was an Angelic message and I felt an immense presence of overwhelming love. I was innately confident I was on a journey I was truly divinely called to do. I knew I was absolutely not alone on it either. I left €2 and collected my spiritual token which I would carry with me for the remainder of my journey.
Field of Crosses on Camino de Santiago
Answer to a Spiritual Matter
Soon after this I was blown away once again by the Divine realm. I was suffering from a damaged marriage and sought prayerful guidance for direction on my Camino. I loved this woman deeply and felt very strongly about honoring my marital vows having already stood by her side through absolute hell.
The Angels Answered my Question
She is a wonderful and kind person who is struggling with her demons. We all are. I have deep compassion for her as she bravely goes through her challenges. This was on my mind as I climbed. I came through a field of crosses and then upon this. The Camino brings you to where you need to be and I needed to see and internalize this on the mountain that day. Whatever happens in this life crossroad I will strive to rejoice in the choice. I felt a great deal of comfort and love as I moved onward and upward.
The view was beautiful near Foncebadon
And a Glorious Sunset
I truly felt close to the Divine as I climbed upward. I had been in deep fog throughout the day. Eventually I would go above the cloud line and was treated to the most glorious sunset amid snow capped mountain peaks. I would not have enjoyed this had I gone where I wanted to go. The Camino brings you where you need to be.
Dalmatian greeted me as I entered Foncebadon
Followed by a Dog Sign
After a final climb I reached Foncebadon. Foncebadon is a very small village that is largely in ruins today. It is important because it is the closest village to one of the most important points on the Camino, El Cruz de Fierro. I will explain its significance when I reach it tomorrow. My Guardian Angel explained to me that dogs are very important messengers in my life. Dalmatians are especially important to me as I have two very special Dalmatian souls in my life in Beethoven ('94 - '08) and Suzy Q ('06 - ). I saw a Dalmatian as I entered Foncebadon. I saw a Dalmatian as I left Burgos. I knew this would be a special place on my Camino. The Camino brings you where you need to be.
The Wonderful Albergue Monte Irago
Where Will I Sleep?
It was dark and I had trekked 7 km / 4.5 mi more than planned through difficult terrain. I really needed to find a place. I had heard of a hostel in Foncebadon so I looked for it. I did find it up a dark & lonely dirt road. There was an elderly couple who looked startled and not too happy to see me. "Cerrado, Cerrado..." (Closed) they exclaimed and asked me to leave. I came across the only other place where I saw smoke arising from a chimney.
I received a hearty and warm welcome from the man and woman at the Foncebadon Albergue Monte Irago and saw a sign "Abierto todo el ano" (Open All Year). Bruce Springsteen was playing and their fire was quite welcoming. What more could a pilgrim want? The man bid me good night and was on his way. As the only guest, I got that and much more. This would be one of my favorite places on my El Camino.
I got my belongings situated and my Pilgrim credential stamped and was offered some delicious tapas of Spanish cured ham, olives, cheese and a wonderful house made wine. I introduced myself to the woman. Her name was Katia. She was Austrian and actually spoke English fluently. I had not encountered a fluent English speaker in a week. Katia also rarely met English speaking people. It also did not hurt that she was very beautiful. We would click.
The wine flowed freely and the fire burned brightly. I was also offered a delicious meal of pork, eggs and a salad. The house made bread was also simply sublime. With my stomach full I was ready to enjoy more wine and good conversation by the fireplace with this woman who I would soon find to be quite amazing.
Bruce Springsteen with The Seeger Sessions Band was playing. Katia asked me about the geography and meaning of the songs "Erie Canal" and "Old Dan Tucker". Being that I was from the Midwestern USA and born in the Southeastern USA and currently into some excellent wine I gladly regaled her with stories of both songs. Yes, I was wishing to impress and made sure to explain things from the perspective of someone who had little knowledge of US music or history.
I then wanted to know her story. It seems she up and decided to walk from her home near Salzburg, Austria to Santiago de Compostela and then onward to Finisterre. This is a distance of some 2250 km / 1400 mi. She then intended to walk back but was called to stay for awhile and volunteer in Foncebadon. Like me, she too was at a crossroad in her life. She was unsure what she wanted to do with the rest of her life. She impressed me as an intelligent and mature old soul. I assured her she was where she needed to be right now and she should be confident that she will end up in the right place in her life.
We stayed up until 1am talking about life. I also shared my story about how I came to the Camino and what I hoped to find out there.
It is said that the Camino offers all who walk it the opportunity for a love affair and it is up to each whether they take it or not. I will admit I felt an inexplicable deep connection to Katia and ended up thinking about her well after I left Foncebadon. Absolutely nothing romantic happened that night but I wondered if that indeed was the love affair the Camino offered me.
The Camino took me where I needed to be.
My Tunes for the Day
This album is pure gold and will forever remind me of the wonderful night I spent on the eve before I would go to the Cruz de Fierro.
Los Montes de León - Mountains Appear Outside of Orbigo
Spectacular Scenery
Since I hiked 12 km / 7.5 mi farther than planned on Sunday I would enjoy a short 18 km / 11.2 mi hike today. I also am in the extreme northwest corner of the Castillian Meseta. Flat lands that have predominated my Camino would yield to rolling hills today and Alpine landscape tomorrow. The Alpine trail will feature the highest altitude of El Camino.
I am excited about reaching Astorga today. It marks roughly the halfway point of my journey. It has beautiful and important landmarks in the Cathedral and Gaudi Palace. It is also famous for chocolate. It also is the city that is at the foot of the first major mountain range I will pass. All of these things plus knowing I will have a short day brings me positive energy and a spring in my step.
Pro Cycling Team - An Unexpected Camino Sight
Soon a Pro Cycling Team
They say El Camino will bring the unexpected. Imagine my surprise when a peloton of professional cyclists blow by me. My camera was in my pocket so the picture of them and their support vehicle was the best I could do. It was exciting to me even though I have no idea who they or their team were.
Shepherd, His Flock and Sheep Dogs
And a Flock of Sheep
I was glad I decided to go without iPod here. Soon, I heard a cacophony of bells and barks that was growing louder. It dawned on me that my road was going to be blocked. The "Americano loco con camara" (Crazy American with a camera) reappeared. You just know the shepherd is laughing as if to think "Is this the first time he has seen sheep?"
La Iglesia de la Trinidad OPEN
A Beautiful Chapel Followed
I discovered something for the very first time on my Camino as I entered the village Santibanez fr Valdeiglesias. It was a Church in a small village that was actually open. This gave me great joy as I love seeing where a small village worships. Once inside, two women were busy changing the altar for the Epiphany season but welcomed me. I obtained a stamp for my Pilgrim credential. A Pilgrim obtains a Pilgrim credential when they start their Camino. It is similar to a Passport and it is stamped at each important location along the way. Important is definitely in the eye of the beholder. For example, I had my credential stamped at stops along the way where I had a particularly memorable meal or cool experience. I will present my credential to the Office in the Cathedral in Santiago as proof that I have completed my journey.
I did encounter churches in each small village but they all were most definitely closed. Spain closes down from 25 December - 7 January which explained some closures. Some villages simply had few if anybody living there which explained others.
Does one say "Cheese" to cows?
And Then Livestock
One of the fun parts of El Camino was the enthusiasm that livestock seemed to display when they willingly posed for pictures. They certainly kept their curiosity of pilgrims who passed by. Sights like this were a very common and delightful experience. They became more common from this point onward.
An Interesting and Uplifting Landmark
A Pilgrim Landmark
A few kilometers up the road was this statue, rock cairn and cross. It brought a smile to my face as it instilled a sense of community in an otherwise lonely landscape between villages. It is common for "random" messages to be discovered on stones along the way. I don't believe they are random at all. The ones you see are the ones God intended you to see for your Camino to help answer the questions you pose. One I saw read "The Camino is a Gate. We are all passing through." I recognized the Camino to be a metaphor for our life journey and as such this resonated deeply within me. I felt a warm and loving feeling flow through me so I know this was a Divine message.
Modern Day Hermit David lived here devoting his life to serving Pilgrims
The Foundation of The House of The Gods
It would not be long before I came upon another Camino legend - David of the House of the Gods. Years ago, David gave up all creature comforts of life in Barcelona along with work and family to live simply in a shanty on El Camino. He sleeps outdoors and has no running water nor electricity.
He tells me God called him to a life of serving Pilgrims. He offered a wonderful assortment of food and beverage along with a bed for a donation to any and all. He simply asks you to pay what you can. I was not particularly in need of food nor beverage but was immensely curious about interacting with him. I enjoyed some lemonade made from actual lemons and sweetened with honey from actual bees that was sublime. This was accompanied by fresh bread and peanut butter again with real peanuts and honey which was also sublime. The food was very high quality too similar to what an American or Londoner would find in Whole Foods. I spent about 45 minutes just talking with him. I asked him everything. Well almost everything as I did not wish to inquire about what abandoning his family was all about or how it came to be. Perhaps the whole concept was lost in translation and he simply meant that he moved away from his family the same as I moved away from mine.
He was as sincere and genuine a person as could be. His message to me was "Life is easy. We make it complicated." and to "Love and Serve One Another." which coincidentally were two of the guiding principles given to me by my Guardian Angel on my very first day of El Camino. I don't believe in coincidences so I definitely took note.
A Welcome Sight - Astorga Cathedral and Mountain Pass
And Astorga Came into View
Astorga and its beautiful 15th century Cathedral came into view from atop the Meseta. It was a welcome sight even though it was still a good 90 minutes away and the formidable obstacle of a high mountain pass and its unpredictable weather loomed on the horizon.
Astorga - Episcopal Palace de Gaudi
Do I Smell Chocolate?
A small Roman medieval bridge led into this wonderful city. Well OK, you crossed this bridge and then had to scale a modern bridge over a set of railway tracks and then climb a lung buster of a hill to find your way into the beautiful historical city. I checked into the nice Hotel Gaudi across from the famous Episcopal Palace.
And after that I was now famished. You see most everything in Spain closes on Sunday so that means you have to have to purchase food from a store on Saturday evening and carry it in your backpack for your Sunday sustenance. That limits your choices to basically small meals throughout the day and in turn I am usually very hungry on Monday. I found a pizzeria that also had a Roast Chicken special. I had been craving a properly roasted chicken ever since I started. On this day I would eat a whole pizza and an entire roast chicken. After that I found a store that sold nothing but chocolate. Astorga is renowned for very good quality chocolate. Chocolate is not only tasty but is also an excellent energy food so I bought plenty. I would need that for the mountains.
My Tunes for the Day
Another Pink tune that was a daily play. I loved it for a good pick me up on the trail and and I certainly raised my glass plenty on El Camino. No comment on whether I am a dirty little freak, party crasher or panty snatcher but I can confirm that I am in fact too "School for Kewl"!
I was leaving León with the knowledge that large mountain passes were coming in 3 days. I was carrying about 1.5 kg / 3 lbs of gear that I did not need. I needed to lighten my load and this meant sending my gear onward to Santiago. To do this meant leaving this with the concierge of my hotel albeit a super luxurious one. The concierge could not mail this until Tuesday. What was this gear? My Samsung Galaxy tablet and other important personal items. I would not be happy if this were lost or stolen as personal data and precious photos were on this device.
I would have to either trust that the Camino would meet my needs or carry this dead weight over several large mountain passes. I chose to trust the Camino (eg God, Universe) or in this case a Parador concierge and a hotel manager in my Santiago hotel whom I have never met. This did require a fair amount of trust as either party could have easily taken my valuables with very little recourse. Still I felt it more important to risk loss and honor my Camino motto "Trust that the Camino Will Provide." I gave this trust to my Guardian Angel and walked out of my hotel that day.
Pilgrim Statue after La Virgen del Camino
Would a Taxi Be Best Today?
Before I started I knew that today's route would be mentally tough as it had a great deal of "The Suck." The scenery today would bring truck stops instead of cathedrals and busy highways instead of nature trails. I really contemplated whether it would be OK to take a taxi and bypass this decidedly non-scenic portion.
This Horse Needed Me in The Suck
Sometimes We Need to be in The Suck
My Guardian Angel reminded me that the Camino is a metaphor for life; the good and the bad. Sometimes we're needed in the bad. I decided against the taxi and looked forward to walking even if the scenery would leave something to be desired.
I'm glad I did because I made a difference to a living soul that day. I heard some strange rustling to my left. I glanced and I saw something that seemed to be very much out of place. It was a horse tied to a tree in a suburban area beside a highway. Inspecting more closely I noticed the horse seemed to be in some distress because the rope had gotten dangerously tangled around his legs. I looked around for somebody to help because I was not sure what to do. There was nobody. I prayed for guidance and cautiously approached the horse. I consider it a miracle that the horse trusted I was there to help him and let me loosen his rope and untangle him.
Still 298 km / 200 mi to Santiago
I felt I indeed learned a lesson in that situation. Sometimes we need to be in The Suck because others will need us to help them. It was a powerful lesson because I had no idea what to do at first. There was nobody around to help. I took action albeit cautiously and made a difference in that horse's day. I felt God in me and I was ok walking by truck stops and warehouses on this day. I also vowed to see how I could be of assistance to others when I am in The Suck.
Puente de Orbigo - Site of a famous medieval tournament
When a Knight Loves a Lady
One of my spiritual reasons for doing El Camino centered around love and a relationship. This bridge leading into Hospital de Orbigo thus held a special meaning to me for its fame of being associated with a love affair.
In 1434 the Leonese Knight Suero de Quiñones held what was likely Europe's last medieval jousting tournament all over a lady.
The Knight had been scorned by his lady. His first move was to don an iron collar around his neck as a symbol that he considered himself bound to her. Somehow that did not impress her.
He then tried a different angle. He then challenged all the Knights of Europe to bring their lances and meet him on the Puente de Orbigo. It didn't take long for this to go "viral" or the medieval equivalent of this. European nobility who had grown weary of court politic and gruesome dynastic wars yearned for the simpler times where a Knight, by force of his personality and noble cause, could prevail. He became legendary in Spanish history and was mentioned in Don Quixote.
The highly anticipated tourney commenced with much fanfare and a large audience of Pilgrims. The jousting went on for several weeks and after each day's contest the knights and their entourage enjoyed grand banquets in the Corporate Hospitality Tent of the Day. Suero met all his challengers and emerged victorious against all. But as luck would have it one of the knights, Gutierre, was a bit of a bad sport about the whole thing and swore revenge.
Did Suero pine for an ancestor of McKayla Maroney?
On the final day of the Tourney, Suero proclaimed that he proved his fealty to the secret lady but alas she was not impressed.
He then removed his iron band and claimed to be free of the prison of love. To demonstrate this he vowed to journey to Santiago as a pilgrim. He did and deposited a jewel-encrusted golden bracelet as a token off his release from the bonds of love. That bracelet is in the Cathedral in Santiago.
As luck would have it 24 years later Suero was riding in the open Spanish countryside when he came upon Gutierre who was still holding a grudge. The two dropped their visor and charged. A moment later the quixotic Suero lay dead.
Why didn't he just talk to the lady he loved so?
Albergue in Orbigo
A Camino Lesson on How to Really Serve in The Suck
I liked how I found myself where I needed to be on The Camino. I was not supposed to be in Orbigo but ended up there because there were no accommodations in the town where I planned to stop for the day. I wound up in much simpler accommodations than in León; An Albergue with no heat, hot water or toilet paper that cost 5 euros.
But I knew that a tourist demands, a Pilgrim accepts. I was thankful for my bed as I was the fellow German, Japanese and Spanish pilgrims I encountered. Hey I ended up sharing a cabin with two 19 yo girls from Barcelona even.
But most importantly about that day was I learned of the story of Karl Leisner. I will leave it to interested readers to read the story in greater detail and encourage them to do so. In short, Karl was called to the Priesthood as a young boy. Through a rather bizarre set of random circumstances, this German youth wound up in Dachau concentration camp. Through it all, he served his fellow man and gave thanks for his opportunity to do so. He was secretly ordained a Priest as was his lifelong dream and shortly died thereafter.
Suddenly, walking along a highway truck stop and other "Sucks" I experienced that day such as having to trek 12 km / 7.5 mi father than planned seemed minor.
My Tunes for the Day
I loved this song especially when I needed a reminder that my body was electric. Lana Del Rey's Body Electric served that purpose on many a day of my Camino.
