My 2015 Review - What a truly amazing year

Here's How 2015 Started

As somewhat of an annual tradition, 2015 began with an absolutely amazing meal featuring an Asian Continental menu from one of my most adored restaurants which also earned it's second Michelin star in 2015. Also an annual tradition: I donned a suit and favoured bow-tie. One more annual tradition: I pedaled my Dutch City Bike there despite the windchill being -5F. Another annual tradition: I felt a bit smug knowing I was not subjected to $100+ Uber fares like the rest of my dining companions. One final annual tradition: I always have a cocktail or wine from a planned travel adventure. For 2015, that was Africa. The Sommelier suggested a South African Single Malt which they happened to carry. I enjoyed a Three Ships 10 yr Single Malt from James Sedgwick which was sublime.

I biked home and poured a glass of Cava as midnight drew nigh. They say who you are with and what you do as the New Year starts will be very important to you throughout the year. I put on my Basset Hound sidekick extraordinaire Sweetpea's leash and 'allegedly' carried my glass of Cava down to the local Dog Park. Woof.

With my alma mater South Carolina already chalking up their bowl win, I enjoyed my traditional meal of Collard Greens, Black Eye Peas, Ham and Pot Likker Soup for a fortuitous 2015.

My 2015 Goals

I crafted a 3-5 year Life Plan a few years ago. I review my progress quarterly and update it annually. This is based on truly living life and going after what I really want in life. OK, you're probably curious as to what that is:

• I want to live and be present in a spirit of happiness - not from a point to always seeking it through things or some perceived unmet need. 
• I want acknowledgement, validation and appreciation. 
• I want to positively impact others.
• I want to minister to animals.

From the above, I defined goal dimensions, priorities and action steps.

The end result are these 2015 goals.

My 2015 Goals

How Did I Do?

Smashingly well. I attribute my success to taking the time for inward reflection and understanding what it really important to me. I spent my days doing such and so I spent a year of my life doing such. It truly is very fulfilling.  Here's some highlights.

Complete a Race on Every Continent

I finished all the World Major Marathons (Berlin, Boston, Chicago, London, New York and Tokyo) in 2014 so I set a goal to run a race of any distance on all 7 continents. I chose the Victoria Falls Half Marathon  for 2015. That goal scared me a bit to be honest. I had never been to Africa before. I wasn't sure where the money would be sourced. But I set the goal. The money did come. I enjoyed a very life-enriching travel adventure which I am sure will appear one day when my life plays before my eyes. I also raised much needed funds for Paws Chicago as a charity runner. I was proud of myself for doing this.

Explore the World - Spiritual Pilgrimage

In December 2014, I felt called to hike the Kumano Kodo in Japan.  Like my African goal, I wasn't sure where the money would be sourced. I set the goal. The money did come. I went in February, 2015. It was a brilliant journey of tranquil mediation and personal growth. There was also excellent cuisine and housing with the locals. I was also featured in a press conference and celebrated by the Japanese for an accomplishment.

I also discovered and felt called to hike the newly launched Cape Camino in South Africa when I was there for my race on every continent adventure. It too was an absolutely amazing experience. The South African people I encountered were absolutely amazing. The food and wine. Wow.

Quantitative Software Development

I've honed in on my vocational passion. I am fascinated with exploring data and seeing what it can tell you. I completed heavily quantitative coursework in Data Science and Machine Learning from MIT, Johns Hopkins, Stanford and U of Washington. I traveled to NYU for a weeklong intensive and heavily quantitative seminar on Advanced Risk and Portfolio Management. I know so much more about many things than I did at the start of 2015. Yay me.

Be a Good Dog Dad

Last, but not least - my trusty sidekick for 2015 was Sweetpea was an important aspect of my life. I wanted to really make her a priority. I am happy to say I did. We walked a few miles most every day and went to a local dog park 1-3x most every day as well. She is good company and brings so much to my life.

My Favorite Things in 2015

Here is some highlights of my amazing year.

Best Meals

Casual and Local

Jibek Jolu is one of the few restaurants in the country serving authentic cuisine from Kyrgyzstan in the country. This is a family owned BYOB place. They care about the food they serve. My very good friend Tatiana took me there. She speaks the language. Suffice it to say, we had outstanding service and the best food on the menu. It truly deserves favored meal status. I rode my bike there.

Michelin Star Experience Local

The restaurant earned 2 Michelin Stars in its first 10 months. Food and Wine awarded Best New Chef to Jake Bickelhaupt. Was there anywhere else that was worthy of my birthday celebration other than 42 grams? Not only a top 2015 meal but also makes my "Top 10 Meals of My Life" list. I also rode my bike there.

Casual and International

Sarashina Horii (3-11-4 Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046 Tokyo, Japan). Masaharu Morimoto took Anthony Bourdain here during the Tokyo episode of No Reservations. Sarashina Horii first opened in 1789 with its claim to fame being its soba. It's clearly stood the test of time. Locals love it today. It did not disappoint.

Fine Dining International

Inside Zimbabwe's grandest hotel is one of the world's most distinguished restaurants: The Livingston Room which was honored as a Top 10 Hotel Restaurant in the World. It is a distinct nod to Zimbabwe's colonial days with tuxedo clad servers who know your name before you arrive. The service was impeccable and the food even better.

Best Sports Moments

Most of my sports teams have experienced life-long futility. There did not disappoint.

The Chicago Blackhawks Win the Stanley Cup

The Blackhawks were expected to be good but they entered the Stanley Cup as arguably the 5th best team in the Western Conference. They won it all. Sweetpea got to attend her 3rd Stanley Cup Parade. The Cup made it to a bar below my place. It was spectacular to be a fan.

Phenomenal Seasons by Chicago Cubs and Carolina Panthers

Honorable mention definitely goes to the Chicago Cubs who definitely exceeded expectations to make the playoffs and then beat the hated St Louis Cardinals in the NLDS. They'll be even stronger in 2016. All the Carolina Panthers did was string together a ridiculous 18 game winning streak which is 3rd longest in NFL history. They went 56 weeks between losing a game. Can't wait for the NFL Playoffs.

My 2016 Goals

So what does 2016 have in store for me? My 2016 Goals look almost exactly like my 2015 Goals. I have just changed the Importance and Urgency of them.

My 2016 Goals

Complete a Race on Every Continent

I am planning on running the Gold Coast Marathon for my Oceania race. I also plan to run the Hamburg Marathon as a Chicago Sister City Ambassador to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of my first marathon. I also am going to run the Chicago Marathon.

Quantitative Software Development

I plan to complete my Data Science and Machine Learning certifications in 2016.

Move Daily - More Yoga, Less Running

I am going to make a higher priority of integrating yoga into my life in 2016.

It's Going to Be An Amazing Year

Long story short, I intend to become more loving. I intend to become more learned. I intend to explore more of this great planet. I open my heart completely to all of these experiences.

I am going to enjoy this ride.

More American Musings - The Good, Bad And Ugly Of All Things Japanese

You Will Love the Japanese People

The Japanese, like every nationality in the world, certainly do not all conform to a unified system of behavior, thought or ideology. Regardless, here are some traits I and others before me have observed when visiting Japan.

If there were Nobel Prizes awarded to citizenry, the Japanese would have the Hospitality, Graciousness and Friendliness awards wrapped up. I encountered unbelievable kindness from the Japanese people in Tokyo and throughout the Kii Mountain Range. I will definitely cover specific personal experiences in future blog posts.

The Japanese are also largely extremely punctual which is in contrast with western standards. If you have a meeting with a Japanese friend or colleague, adjust your travel time to accommodate this. If delays are unavoidable, communicate as best as possible your anticipated arrival time even if you are just going to be 5 minutes late.

You will find a high degree of honor and honesty amongst the Japanese people. One of the things that stood out to me in this matter was the lack of bicycle locks. From Tokyo to small villages, bikes are a common mode of transport. Oddly, you won't see too many of them locked up. If there is a lock, it is a small cable that provides minimal security. This is a stark contrast to Chicago where I typically use 2-3 locks with the primary lock being highest security and the other 2 being medium to high security too.

You will find some, but not much English spoken along the Kii Mountain Range. It is advised that you learn basic Japanese travel and courtesy phrases. I used this free website. You can and should subsidize this with a quality Voice Translation app on your smartphone. The one I really like is Voice Translation by Axismobinc which is available on both Android and iPhone. I found the Japanese people are accustomed to using these to bridge the language gap.

You Will Also Love the Transportation System

The Japanese Rail system is one of the, if not the most advanced rail systems in the world. It is fast, clean and prompt to the minute. In fact, announcements are made to apologize for a delay as little as 30 seconds. The rail authority will even issue tickets of delay explanation to its users to excuse tardiness. 

It's highly recommended that you purchase a Japan Rail Pass. These must be purchased in your home country before you arrive in Japan. A 7 day pass will cost less than a roundtrip ticket from Tokyo to the Kii Mountain Range area. Most tourists purchase the regular pass. I like to spend a little extra for the Green First Class pass. The cost is very small relative to the cost of your trip and the benefits are definitely worth it.

Likewise, Tokyo has arguably the world's best subway and train system. The trains run frequently, are clean and are equally prompt. Note that the trains stop at midnight so you should plan your late night activities accordingly. You should also spring for a Suica or Pasmo card to make using the train / subway that much easier and efficient. These are not required but trust me, there are headaches and inefficiencies associated with not using them most notably that a paper ticket purchased to enter one subway line might not work to use another subway line in Tokyo. I've used the train with and without. I will never use the train without again.

There are Tokyo subway apps but the best method to navigate is Google Maps.

You Will Have to Adjust to a Largely Cash-Based Society

The Japanese banking system simply stated is not integrated with the international banking system. The Japanese people do not like using their banks either. These banks charge exhorbitantly high customer fees for almost every transaction possible. The end result is that the Japanese operate in a largely cash-based society. They can even opt to receive their company pay in cash.

This has ramifications for the westerner. Namely, ATM's are scarce. You will almost certainly have to use the ATM found in every Post Office while in the Kii Mountain Range. You can find an ATM in the Post Office, some 7-11's and some train / subway stations in Tokyo or larger cities.

You should also expect to pay cash for all your Kii Mountain Range accommodations, transportation, food and other purchases regardless of cost or quality.

Credit / Debit cards are more readily accepted in Tokyo and larger cities but you still should be prepared to pay cash for most things outside of your hotel accommodations.

It is also highly recommended to notify your banking and credit card institutions that you will be in Japan before you leave to prevent your cards from being frozen for suspicion of fraudulent activity.

You Will Be Appalled at the Public Smoking

Japan's tobacco industry is largely government owned and their smoking laws and attitudes are easily 30+ years behind the rest of the modern world. I don't think the "Smoking causes cancer" concept has caught on over there. Smoking is pervasive and you will have to actively seek out non-smoking options for dining, drinking and entertainment.

Fortunately, I did not experience troublesome smoking in the Kii Mountain Range area on my Kumano Kodo. 

You won't be so lucky in Tokyo or other larger cities. Fortunately there are options and there are smoke-free Tokyo website resources that can direct you to better bars and restaurants.

There may be hope for a smoke-free Japan. There is a strong push to host a smoke-free Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games.

A Life Journey of Days: How I Trekked My Way Across Spain to Enlightenment

25 days, 516 km / 320 mi, Cities, Villages, Pueblos, Plains, Hills, Mountains, Ocean, Alburgues, Hostels, Pensions, Hotels, One "Best Hotel in the World", Sunny, Cool, Warm, Rain, Torrential Rain, Snow, Sleet, Blizzard, Dogs, Cats, Cows, Bulls, Horses, Sheep, Wolves, Bears, Hens, Roosters, Donkeys, Ducks, Geese, Storks, Medieval Bridges, Soccer Players, Templar Knights, Bartenders, Award-winning Chefs, Sommeliers,  more than a few lost souls and even some fellow Pilgrims encountered. These were all part of an amazing life-affirming and life-changing adventure that I experienced as I successfully walked across Northern Spain alone in the dead of winter. This was my Camino de Santiago.

The Camino de Santiago is a very personal journey; A Medieval Christian Pilgrimage to the Cathedral in Santiago (Galicia) that has the earthly remains of the Apostle James who was one of Jesus' most trusted friends. Pilgrims have walked the Camino for over 1000 years for a variety of reasons. Once one successfully completes the Pilgrimage, their name is entered into the official records alongside all that came before them with the reason for their journey.

My official reason was "Religión y Otras Razones" (Religion and Other Reasons). Simply stated, I came seeking spiritual answers. I found them. I came seeing if I had the mental fortitude to hike alone for days on end in a variety of weather. I got up every day and I did. I came seeing if I had the physical ability to hike with a 12 kg / 25 pound backpack over such a long distance with diverse terrain. I dropped 130,000+ calories, dropped 12 kg / 25 pounds and I did.

So today I finally arrived in Santiago de Compostela. I would like to tell you that I completed my pilgrimage in a somber and humble manner. I didn't. I strutted with a smile on my face as wide as can be. Sure I was very thankful for God delivering me on a safe journey but I was immensely proud of myself for listening to the signs to "Just Do It", to take that first step so many days earlier and to keep on going day in and day out. My motto was "Fíese de que el Camino proporcionará" (Trust that the Camino will provide). It did with daily miracles that were there for those who had eyes to see them.

The Eric who started the Camino is not the Eric who finished the Camino. I made myself physically, mentally & spiritually vulnerable to God out there. I emerged a better person because of this. El Camino fue solo el principio; Mi viaje continua (The Camino is only the beginning; My journey continues).

Day 18: Vega de Valcare - O Cebreiro: Angel in Human Form, Wolf Tracks and Camino Surprise

Camino goes up after Hospital Ingles

My Last Major Mountain

I began my day with mixed emotions.  I was cautiously nervous heading up a big mountain pass by myself knowing I could find myself in a number of life threatening situations from snow, cold, and wildlife. Help would not be close at hand. I also was a bit melancholy that today was the last ascent of a major mountain pass. I enjoyed the mountains for their serene beauty as well as the sense of accomplishment that came from climbing them.

I'll soon leave rain for the snow

I would have time to contemplate all of the things going through my head as I still had to cover 5km / 3.1 mi through the valley before the path turned upward. I passed through several medieval hamlets before arriving in Hospital Ingles, a village dating from 1178. 

To my pleasant surprise, there was a bar / cafe open. That is a highly unusual thing to find on a in Spain especially in such a small hamlet. I went in and got a cafe con leche and a seat by the fire before beginning the rest of my day which would be straight up a mountain into the snow.

18th Century San Andres Church near La Faba

An Angel in Human Form 

I climbed for about an hour or so until I reached the small hamlet of La Faba. I stopped to admire the church when I hear some noise. To my surprise, Salvatrice (Salvation in Italian) from Rome was walking up the Camino near the church in the picture. I last encountered Salvatrice on my very first day on the Camino when I was in serious need of assistance and shelter. She rescued me that day, led me to shelter and told me how I could get food. 

This time I felt Christian love, warmth and a sense of fellowship seeing her again. I had not seen a single soul on The Camino to date. We chatted a bit. She asked if I was alright. I replied that I was. I did notice she was dressed rather oddly for someone trekking a long distance. I also took note that it was very unusual not to have seen her at all over the previous 18 days. I took note that she appeared on the morning I mentally thought about the possible danger of today's trek. I told her I was going to stop into this small albergue cafe before we encountered the snow and steeper portion. She declined and said she was walking onward. I never saw Salvatrice again. Taking all these observations into account along with a few others which I will share later I am confident I encountered an Angel in human form on The Way of Saint James. It was pretty neat and I felt divinely protected as I trekked upward.

And Very Cool Refugio

Cool Refugio in La Faba

I stopped into the refugio (Very basic hostel) cafe before the final and most difficult stretch of the day. I met the most gracious host in a German / Galician guy named Hanz. He told me about how was 23 and was tending to the place over the winter. He was a self-sustaining farmer besides an innkeeper. I know the unemployment rate in Spain is near 50% for people like Hanz and thus I felt compelled to minister to him by spending money. I wasn't terribly hungry but he offered lunch and drink. He brought out some incredible warm homemade bread and cheese from his farm. They both were off the chart good with deep, complex flavors. I also drank a nice house wine and coffee. I asked "Cuanto es" (How much?) and he told me a donation would suffice. I gave him 5 euro which is the going rate for a bed in a place like this but I still felt like I underpaid. He insists on giving me change. I refuse. He is so incredibly thankful that he insists I also take some kiwi. I could not refuse him. We both were made happy with that encounter.

Above the tree line and into the snow zone after La Faba

Enter the Snow 

I walked out of La Faba and the conditions changed very quickly as I entered the snow zone. At first there were gently flurries and only a dusting of snow on the ground. Next was beautiful heavy flakes and 7 cm / 2-3 in of snow on the Camino. Finally it turned absolutely beastly with over 30 cm / 12 " of snow on the ground and very limited visibility leaving no visual clues to The Camino versus a fall to a likely death. I made a point to stay as far away from the trail edge as possible.

Weather Was Now Beastly

And Evidence of a Wolf 

As I gained elevation I became further from civilization. I knew there were bears up here as well as other forms of wildlife. I made a point to be as loud of possible to lessen my chance of an encounter. And then I looked down and exclaimed to myself "Whoa, that is a fresh wolf track in the snow." Intellectually I know that wolves in Spain associate humans as very bad news and the most likely scenario is that the wolf heard me long ago and was increasing his distance between me and him / her. I was fairly certain I was not being stalked but having such a reminder that I am really in the wilderness was a bit sobering to say the least. This is really an area where people need to be rescued or die.

The Border of the Province Galicia

Entering Galicia 

I soon came to the marker signaling that I had entered Galicia. This was an exciting landmark as Galicia was the final Province on my Pilgrimage. I also knew I closing in on O Cebreiro and the security of civilization  Seeing this lifted my spirits considerably and I felt far less isolated than moments ago when I was out of deep snow with fresh wolf tracks.

Rock Fences Mean People - O Cebreiro

Strange Noises Ahead 

Pretty soon I began hearing something very much out of place in the wilderness. It sounded like lots of people playing. I knew nothing about what to expect in O Cebreiro. The last mountain pass summit village, Foncebadon, was desolate with maybe 10 people living there. I thus had no expectations for O Cebreiro.


The rounded a pass and the Camino soon leveled. I also noticed a nice rock fence and trees that were clearly forested. This was a sign of civilization and the noises also became more pronounced and louder. There were definitely many people outside.

Civilization and Snow Pilgrims

I entered the village and was very pleasantly surprised.  O Cebreiro was somewhat of a snow resort. There were taverns, restaurants, B&B's and a large Winter Sports hill. The place was the most busy hamlet I encountered on the entire Camino. It was a medieval village with ancient charm but resembled the hustle and bustle of a ski village.I secured a room in a quaint B&B. I gasp had to make a reservation for a late lunch because the place had a Wait List.

O Cebreiro was a quaint village with a rich history. It dates from the 9th century. The Holy Grail was hidden here. It is noted for its architecture. It is predominated with low, oval stone houses with hugging thatch roofs. This palloza style dates back to Celtic times.

I walked around the village and got my Pilgrim Credential stamp from the local medieval church. I settled down in my warm room which was nice because the wind chills would fall below 0*F outside.

My Tunes for the Day

The Verve "Bittersweet Symphony" was an excellent companion as I trekked up this mountain. It's been a favorite of mine ever since it has been on my endurance training playlist. The song has gotten me though many a long run or trainer ride. It has very pleasant association of endurance accomplishment. I now associate it with accomplishing the climb up a Camino High Mountain Pass.

Day 17: Villafranca del Bierzo - Vega de Valcare: I Took The High Road

12th Century Medieval Bridge Leading Out of Villafranca

Easy or Freakin' Cool 

I awoke well-rested and happy to be in a hostel that had a lovely view of the river and breakfast included. It was a very nice way to start the day.

The day would offer me a choice. I could either take the "Camino Lite" or the "True Pilgrim" route. The Camino Lite route took the valley road. This was flat, steady terrain and was 1.5 km / 1 mi shorter. It certainly was more prudent.

I took the high road out of Villafranca

The True Pilgrim was vertical from the start. It was uphill, uneven, wet and slippery terrain for 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent followed by a gnarly, almost straight 2 km / 1.25 mi treacherous descent. It would take about 2 hrs longer and it was raining steadily.

Guess which one I chose? My Guardian Angel told me to do epic stuff. Always go with an option described as gnarly in life.

Mountain Village of Trabadelo

The Cafe Free Summit 

Although the province border of Leon extends to another day's walk, the village architecture and flavor are now pure Galician. They are smaller; more hamlets than village. They consist of a few stone houses clustered around a tiny stone church. The cow population increased. Stone fences divide land into smaller plots. The farmers and locals were quite friendly too.

After a few hours of strenuous climbing I arrived at the mountain top village of Trabadelo. I so desired a Pilgrim credential stamp to show I took this route and a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) to warm me up. There were signs along The Camino that suggested a cafe was open in the village. But alas after a walk through the charming hamlet I saw the cafe / bar was closed. I was devastated. I broke down in tears and wanted to quit my Camino. OK, I didn't. I really walked with this friendly farmer and his rather large horse back to his field / my Camino Trail.

Stone Church of Trabadelo

What Goes Up Comes Down 

I arrived back on the Camino. The 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent would be followed by a very steep 2 km / 1.25 mi descent. The going was slow because every step had to be taken with care but time was of no essence. I enjoyed being present in the moment and enjoying the glorious valley views. I also felt very much alive for choosing the "True Pilgrim" route over "Camino Lite." It should also be noted that during medieval times the "Camino Lite" version was extremely dangerous with murderous thieves. However, those that chose the "True Pilgrim" route faced a financial mugging too. The Castle Auctares stood on the exit from Trabadelo and the lords supported themselves by taxing (eg extorting) the Pilgrims until King Alonso VI put a stop to the practice in 1072. As I always say, they were mugged just the same except there was no violence involved and the terms were usually known in advance.

Medieval Bridge Along Tranquil Vega de Valcare

Thou I Walk Through The Valley...

In this case, it was far more tranquility than death so no evil was remotely feared; just the next rain outburst. I had a short and very enjoyable walk for the final 5 km / 3.2 mi before the next day's climb into snow-capped mountains at altitude.

Angelic Messages Came Just The Same

Although the day was intentional short distance-wise, my Guardian Angel and Spirit Guides were present with plenty of uplifting messages. Some may see these as mere chance encounters of graffiti left by others. My world view does not believe in coincidences. Everything happens for a reason. There were no doubt thousands of messages like this on The Camino. I was placed in the right place at the right time to see these.

I felt my Camino calling and life path was affirmed.

I was in a very big life transition. I felt content that things would be ok.

This was the EXACT message my Guardian Angel gave on Day 1

Dogs serve as a message of God's love. I loved this guy!

Where Would I Sleep?

The Camino followed a busy interstate and eventually crossed paths with a hotel / restaurant / service station about 3 km / 2 mi from my planned destination. It was somewhat important I cover as much distance as possible today because the next day was going to be spent climbing a mountain.

I rested a bit with a Coke for energy before I went the final stretch which would take me into 3 hamlets that were very close together. It started to rain pretty heavy and I was thus eager to find a place to sleep. The first hamlet had nothing open. However I did encounter the sweetest German Shepherd who smiled and posed for my camera. I took this as another message that I was not alone on my journey here and would find shelter soon. I passed the second hamlet and nothing was open while the rain came down harder.

Small Chapel near Vega de Valcarce

My Options Were Bleak Until... 

I finally came into the third hamlet. It was a dark and stormy night. It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. You know the literary devices so I will go no further. I was also starving. I looked and looked and looked - nothing.

I was going to walk up one more block before I would decide to walk the 3 km / 2 mi back to the known hotel. There was a hostel sign advertised. I came upon the hostel and it was closed tight. There was a hair salon next door though where a woman was cutting a man's hair. As I started to walk away I heard her calling me from afar. She opened the door for me which led to a nice albeit very empty albergue with bunk beds. She gladly accepted my 8 euros and I had a bed and an albergue all to myself. I then found a lovely warm shower too. All was well.

Once squared away, I walked into "town" to find a nice market open. It was Saturday and it is best practice to buy food for Sunday because you do not know if anything will be open on the Camino on a Sunday. I then found myself in the community bar next door. I enjoyed plenty of wine (eg nearly a bottle) and delicious tapas for all of only 4 euros.

I also was quite amused. I was in the bar with hill folk. There were hunting trophies and things like stuffed squirrels throughout the bar. Old men played cards at the tables. I wore REI clothing and Crocs. I ahem didn't blend. I imagine they got a kick out of the stranger too.

My Tunes for the Day

Lana Del Rey was all new to me. I purposely picked new records for my Camino experience to accompany my classic play lists. While a mountain valley in the northwest corner of Spain was about as far away from cruising down Hollywood and Vine as you could imagine, It was Saturday though and I loved listening to "Burning Desire" everyday of my Camino.

Day 16: Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo: Real Housewives of the Bierzo

Quaint chapel in Compostilla just outside of Ponferrada

Pilgrim Waks Into a Bar

I started my day off wearing brand new Smartwool trekking socks and boots warmed by a radiator on a complete day of rest . Just the bliss I needed to exit the maze that was The Way out of Ponferrada. It is not unusual for the Camino signs to get lost in the visual noise of a large city and I had to pay very close attention until I got out into the lovely suburban town of Compostilla.

Once there, I decided an additional navigation enhancer, Cafe con Leche Grande, was well in order. I stopped at a non-descript bar behind this chapel which again appeared closed by American standards. I did not let appearance deter me and walked right up and opened the door. An attractive female soon took my order. The only customers were a group of ladies in their 30's - 40's enjoying a Friday morning coffee friendly ladies' date. The conversation soon became heated and thus a bit more interesting to this pilgrim. It was more of a friendly disagreement that was verbally escalating than a budding cat fight between hated rivals. The bartender and I made eye contact and laughed a bit at the altercation. One woman began yelling even more loudly at the others when one of the others rolled her eyes and exclaimed, "Claro...tiene cucarachas en la cabeza." (Of course.... You have cockroaches in the head). I gave the bartender an "Oh no she di'nt" gasp and smiled with deep content at the very first insult entirely in Spanish that I comprehended in full on my Camino. The lady allegedly with cockroaches in the head steamed out of the bar. I laughed as I headed out on my Camino.

This Canine Spirit Guide Called Me for Eggs and Beer

And Then Another Bar

By the time I arrived at the next village my stomach was inquiring about food. It was about lunchtime. A very friendly dog approached and walked by my side as if to guide me. He walked ahead, sat down outside this bar and looked at me as if to say "This place has a lovely Pilgrim menu del dia." He sold me. By the looks of the inside I could tell this place was quite lively during the busy season. 

Today it was just me and several local men drinking beer and talking La Liga football (Spanish soccer). I did note with a bit of humor that the men of Bierzo could get along just well over beer and sports talk but give the women caffeine and a quiet bar and you are asking for a fight to break out. I decided to vote for peace and enjoyed a lunch of bacon, eggs & a Galician lager beer.

Spanish Love Naked Lady Statues

Onto The Bierzo Wine Country

I was blessed with a beautiful but crisp January day as I trekked. And I soon was going to be blessed with gorgeous scenery to match. I was entering the Bierzo Wine Country which meant The Camino would be surrounded by vineyards for the remainder of the day. The vines were all dormant of course and my only company was the occasional farmer out tending to the land. However I could tell this was probably the slowest terrain of the summer as there were many roadside wine tasting shacks that no doubt did a robust business. There was also the occasional Naked Lady sculpture. The Spanish appeared to love these. I obviously did too.

Another interesting hand-made flecha (arrow)

Then to Camponaraya

The Way was lovely as vineyards temporarily gave way to wooded trails. Hand-made signs gave the Camino a more mystic feel than usual through this section. Maybe that was a bit of Camino foreshadowing as I soon would experience another interesting encounter.

Another Angelic Sign? Dog Out of Nowhere

Canine Angel Greeting

My Guarding Angel told me that God uses dogs in my life to show love and in turn I am to minister to dogs. This makes perfect sense given the role dogs have played in my life. I stopped just before the village of Cacabelos to rest a bit before my final walk to Villafranca. 

I was approached by a dog who seemed to appear out of nowhere. He was comforting and at the same time curious of me. He stayed by my side the entire time I rested.  When I got up to leave he followed but only to the edge of the rest area. I thanked him for his company and lovingly exclaimed "Perro bueno" (Good dog) before leaving. He wagged his tail as if to say "Buen Camino." I took a few steps and looked back. The dog had completely vanished as if into thin air. I waited and looked to see if he went behind a tree or some such. I never saw him. This was very unusual because there was no place he could have easily gone that would have been out of my sight. I took note of this with a "Wow"!

Was this an angel or a spirit guide sent to check on me? I have no idea but I can say I did enjoy the company and felt happy for having had the experience.

Interesting sculpture in a Vineyard

Vineyards into Villafranca

The Way out of Cacabelos was adjacent to a busy rural highway and quite hilly. There was also a strong headwind which made it mentally taxing. Eventually the Camino turned off onto dirt trail along vineyards which was much better for the final km of the day. Some rather interesting sculpture in the style of Gaudi caught my eye. It was beautiful but quite unusual. It seemed a bit out of place in a vineyard. I stopped a bit to take it all in as this too was meant to be a part of my Camino experience.

There was a village off to my left in the distance. That usually is a Camino sign that means this is where you will stop for the night. I noticed that the Camino was making no progress to that village which was a bit disheartening for a tired pilgrim who is also going uphill. At the top of the hill, I saw the medieval village that was Villafranca. I was right there and my spirits lifted. It turns out that the little town I saw was Corullon. It has 3 extraordinary Romanesque churches but I had no desire to go the extra 3 km / 2 mi to get there late Friday evening as the sun was going down and a misty rain was in the forecast. Just food and shelter was on my mind.

Early 12th Century Medieval Bridge in Villafranca 

Where Will I Sleep Tonight

I arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo from atop a big hill. Villafranca is one of the best preserved medieval towns on the Camino and one of its prominent features is steep stairs leading to its impressively beautiful Plaza Mayor (Town Square). I did take note of an open Alburgue  atop the hill.


However if I committed to staying here I would have to walk downhill in the cold rain to get food and then uphill back. I decided to take my chances downhill. I would be walking up mountain ranges soon enough. There is no need to add hills when I should be resting after a long trek.

I arrived into the Plaza Mayor. It was beautiful and there were plenty of places to eat but all the hostels and hotels were closed. There was a sign advertising a hostel further down the Camino though. I had no assurances that it would be open so my choices were to walk back uphill to the sure thing or keep on going a bit to the advertised hostel which would also reduce my next day's walk by 1.5km / 1mi. I chose to gamble and look for that hostel.

Searching for this hostel took much more work than I thought. I was about ready to turn around and backtrack to the albergue when I finally saw a sign that pointed basically down a back alley near the river. I followed it and saw a place that looked very much closed. I rang the doorbell. What do you know; Somebody answered. I was taken to a very nice room with a nice shower and good heat too. Just what I needed as the rain started coming down outside. I took a shower and soon headed off to enjoy a nice Pilgrim Menu del dia (Menu of the Day). I fell asleep quite content and ready for the next day's challenge. I was once more going up into the mountains.

Villafranca was essentially a "foreigners' town" as described in a document from 943. Modernization had completely passed it by and it was one of the few Camino towns that had retained all its preserved medieval architecture and charm. It would make an excellent Rest Day to experience the rich history and medieval architecture while getting ready for the mountain effort.

My Tunes for the Day

I loved this song. I spoke to me on my Camino journey since I was on a spiritual crossroads of major transition in my life too. I literally was experiencing most of the Top 10 Life Stress Events all concurrently. At the same time I was being divinely called to walk across northern Spain in the dead of winter too. I also encountered a fair amount of rain on The Way so the symbolism was evident. I would not be along through this.

Day 15 Ponferrada: How I Applied a Guardian Angel Principle and Still Found Time for a Siesta

Wild Mountains leading to Galicia from Ponferrada

Slow Start to a Day

One of the benefits of a rest day is the chance to do very important things like wash and dry all your clothes. Most good gear will dry overnight but certain items such as Smartwool hiking socks need a good bit more than 12 hours to dry completely. I also had time to take care of some personal matters and make a guilty pleasure purchase - new Smartwool socks and glove liners. I also had time to take a long hot relaxing soak in the tub.

Another Camino mystery - Saint Amy Adams praying?

Another Camino Mystery

I came upon this outside of Ponferrada. Why was American actress Amy Adams praying for a hot chick who is holding a parrot and wearing a leopard spotted bra? Why is the woman wearing a toga pointing at her? I am sure there is a deep meaning in there somewhere; I am just not sure what it is! It did bring a smile to my face. Maybe that was the meaning.

My Guardian Angel Provided a Valuable Camino Lesson - Knock on Doors

Knock on Doors 

My Guardian Angel introduced himself to me on Day 1 of my journey and gave me 10 life principles that I should learn / apply to my Camino experience and life journey. It was a surreal and meaningful happening. One of those was "Knock on More Doors. Opportunity Awaits but you have been timid to chase it at times."

It was a valuable lesson to learn and apply during the winter in Spain. Important needs on The Way of Saint James often were behind doors that appeared closed and locked by American standards and appearance. As I progressed I became more willing to approach seemingly closed buildings to see if they were in fact open. Had I not done so I would have slept outdoors in the cold of January and missed many meal opportunities. Today I really wanted a Pilgrim Credential stamp from the beautiful Basilica in Ponferrada. There are no signs "Get your credential stamp here!" flashing to lead the way. However there was a Catholic School attached to the Basilica. I saw what I thought to be a Head Master's office behind locked doors. I mustered up the courage to knock on that door. I spoke confidently in Spanish while presenting my Pilgrim credential. I got a warm "Buen Camino" and I got that stamp. I know I would not have done that on Day 1 of my Camino.

The Camino again is a metaphor for life and this lesson has deeper implications to my life than a stamp or a three-course meal. I have been bold in chasing personal goals be it an Ironman Triathlon or adventure trek but I have been hesitant to put myself out there at times in life. I have sometimes been unwilling or unable to ask for help when I needed it. I have often not approached others to communicate what I need. This weakness in me has hampered not only my life journey but other's who have crossed my path.  My Guardian Angel as usual is loving and right. I do need to knock on more doors. 

Templar Castle is said to contain Holy Secrets

Of Castles, Cravings and Pinxtos

The remainder of my rest day was spent leisurely sampling wine and pinxtos (tapas), visiting the small but worthwhile History Museum and of course the Templar Castle.  The History Museum was surprisingly interesting. It had much Camino history and tombstones dating from the 1st century that were amazingly well-preserved. The Templar Castle is said to contain either secrets regarding the locations of the Ark of the Covenant and Holy Grail or perhaps the artifacts themselves. It had also had one of the most impressive library of medieval books albeit most were reproductions. I did not locate any Holy Secrets but I did get some amazing photos. A friend of mine commented that one looked like a decorative ladle. It actually was the view from an archer defensive opening within the castle.

Photo inside the Castle Walls

After 15 days of trekking I guess it is not unusual to get some cravings. What were mine? I was absolutely yearning for some Tex Mex food and interestingly enough the Camino did provide. What likely is the only Tex Mex restaurant in the whole of Spain happened to be on the Town Square just down from my hotel.

And after a night of guacamole, burritos, wine and pinxtos I returned to my hotel to pack my clean, dry clothes and get a good night's rest. The second big mountain pass awaits.

My Tunes for the Day

Dar Williams "Closer to Me" has always been meaningful to me.  It speaks to my sense of adventure and self-discovery. I also chose it for the Memorial Service for my beloved fur-ever friends Beethoven the Wonder Dalmatian and LaSalle the Rescued Rottweiler / Lab mix. It brings memories of them and all the wonderful places I've seen with a back pack. It also fit right in with my Camino journey. I often found myself hitting Repeat on my iPod Shuffle.

Day 14 Foncebadon - Ponferrada: Of Crosses, Storms and Templars

Hospital de San Juan 11th century Medieval Ruins

Leaving Foncebadon

I was off for a second long 26 km / 16.2 mi day over difficult terrain and my friend Katia was off to yoga. I said my goodbyes and left. I was only about 2 km / 1.25 mi from one of the most sacred places on the Camino, Cruz de Fierro (Cross of Iron) and was contemplating my arrival while processing all that happened the prior day. I began my contemplation as I passed by the medieval ruins pictured 

Cruz de Fierro

The Presence of God 

This is an oft overused phrase sometimes sadly spoken with only vague meaning. Today would not be one of those days. I could feel the Divine God as I got within a few hundred meters of Cruz de Fierro. I could feel positive warming energy envelope my entire being and vibrations that echoed through my core. I felt loved. I felt connected. I assure you these were very real experiences and not just some literary device of new age metaphors. It was immensely cool.

Modern Pilgrim Offering

The Cruz de Fierro is a monument located on the highest point of the Camino de Santiago. It has medieval origins and ancient pilgrims left a stone in honor of their safe passage. Modern pilgrims continue that tradition by leaving a stone and sometimes a memento. Their reasons are as varied as there are numbers of pilgrims. I left two stones and a symbol of things I intended to unburden myself of going forward.

My Offering God = Love Good Journey

I carried a rock from my favorite beach in Bermuda as it is tradition to carry a rock from your homeland. I left this as a Thanksgiving for a safe journey and as a Prayer to honor my efforts on the Camino. I also carried a rock from the grave site of my mother and grandparents. My grandmother passed away at 100 yo before I left on my Camino. I wanted to honor them. Lastly, I left some work documents from a rather toxic and unhealthy work situation that seriously impacted my personal life. I left this as a symbol that I would be leaving all that was symbolized by that experience behind and let it go. I prayed and meditated on a chapel bench facing the Cruz de Fierro for quite awhile. 

When I felt ready, I made a final ascent up the rock pile to touch the cross where I asked God to allow all the positive energy that this sacred place represented over time come into my being. I left but not without leaving a final message for pilgrims who would follow in my footsteps "Dios = Amor Buen Camino" (God = Love Good Journey). I had an immense feeling of elation and energy. I also was now going downhill.

Tomas the Templar - Camino Legend in Manjarin

A Templar Knight

It would not be long until I entered Manjarin and encountered the dwellings of a Camino legend, Tomas the Templar Knight. As a pilgrim approaches, Tomas rings his bell loudly to welcome them. Tomas dresses as a Templar Knight. This very small and currently deserted village has its history dating from the 12 century as a Templar outpost to protect pilgrims crossing the mountain.

Tomas maintains a  very primitive refugio (eg hostel) that has no running water, electricity or toilet. I wasn't interested in that but he also had a dog. "Donde esta su perro" (Where is your dog?) was the first question I asked. Tomas also offered cafe con leche and snacks on a donation basis. His refuge could not have come at a more perfect location for me. No sooner than I entered, a torrential rain storm with gale force winds struck. My serious rain gear was in my back pack. I got nearly naked in front of this man. I gore-tex'd up. I made a contribution to his Pilgrimage signs (Wrigley Field) as shown in the picture and I was on my down.

A storm is brewing off Monte Irago Pass

Downhill in a Gale 

Once I left Manjarin two things came imminently apparent. The first was that I was on a serious descent. Trekking downhill can be and often is harder on the body than uphill. I really needed my Leki Trekking poles to make this day easier on my knees and quads. These poles allow you to transfer a great deal of the work to your core and upper body when used properly. I absolutely love my Leki Trekking poles.

The second was that the weather was going to be quite fierce. The cloud bank in the photo brought pretty high winds, sleet and rain that came at me from above, the side and even sometimes from below. While I knew I was innately protected on this journey I was a bit concerned going through the thick of this storm. Thank God I walked out of it in about an hour.

Beautiful Camino scenery

Once the weather was not a serious concern I still had a few hours trekking down the mountain. Part of it required very deliberate footing as it was dangerously slick. Part though was serenely beautiful and made for an enjoyable Camino experience.

Molinaseca where I crossed a 12th century bridge

The Valley Brings Relief

I came off the mountain quite thankful for my safe descent. Molinaseca was a welcome site indeed. It was a beautiful town that was quite wealthy in medieval times and had some nice homes that seemed to indicate it still retained its status as a wealthy enclave. It was charming enough that I considered staying here for the night and having a short walk into Ponferrada the next day but it seemed mostly closed. I decided to press onward for the final 10 km / 6.2 mi.

I knew this decision would have me walking my last hour in the dark but was not concerned since I would be walking mostly in suburban or urban areas with some street lighting to guide me.

I came upon a local woman out speed walking for exercise on the outskirts of town and quickened my pace to keep up with her. This worked until she followed the main road and I had to turn off onto a Camino Trail. It was shortly thereafter that I actually encountered my first pack of feral dogs. They were about 10 and mostly small to medium sized. However they were very territorial and one was very interested in attacking if given the chance. Fortunately, I am very adept at reading dog body language and was easily able to fend the dogs off with my body language. I did not have to harm them either.

Templar Castle - Ponferrada

Finally Ponferrada  

The stretch into Ponferrada was slightly demoralizing. The main basilica had a beacon light which could be seen for miles. The Camino Trail however seemed intent on circling the town without making progress towards it. I was hungry and it was dark so I finally was relieved when the path changed direction toward the actual town.

After crossing over a large 11th century bridge which gave the town its namesake "Pons Ferrata" (Iron Bridge) and passing through the town wall, one of the first things I saw was the large and imposing Templar Castle. I wanted to experience the Camino as I walked it so I did minimal research as to what was in each town or village. I had no idea there was such a large and historically important castle here. Legend and lore holds that keys to the Holy Grail and Ark of the Convenant are located within these walls.

So with a castle, a cathedral and culinary specialties combined with the fact that I was still one day ahead of plan meant one thing; I was taking a much needed and deserved rest day in Ponferrada.

My Tunes for the Day

This was an awesome tune that I listened to every day on the Camino. Pink - Just Give Me a Reason gave me pause to reflect on the spiritual matter of my damaged relationship and it also had a perfect trekking cadence.