Day 12 Orbigo - Astorga: Living Simply with Pro Cyclists, Sheep, Camino Legend and Chocolate

Los Montes de León - Mountains Appear Outside of Orbigo

Spectacular Scenery 

Since I hiked 12 km / 7.5 mi farther than planned on Sunday I would enjoy a short 18 km / 11.2 mi hike today. I also am in the extreme northwest corner of the Castillian Meseta. Flat lands that have predominated my Camino would yield to rolling hills today and Alpine landscape tomorrow. The Alpine trail will feature the highest altitude of El Camino.

I am excited about reaching Astorga today. It marks roughly the halfway point of my journey. It has beautiful and important landmarks in the Cathedral and Gaudi Palace. It is also famous for chocolate. It also is the city that is at the foot of the first major mountain range I will pass. All of these things plus knowing I will have a short day brings me positive energy and a spring in my step.

Pro Cycling Team - An Unexpected Camino Sight

Soon a Pro Cycling Team 

They say El Camino will bring the unexpected. Imagine my surprise when a peloton of professional cyclists blow by me. My camera was in my pocket so the picture of them and their support vehicle was the best I could do. It was exciting to me even though I have no idea who they or their team were.

Shepherd, His Flock and Sheep Dogs

And a Flock of Sheep

I was glad I decided to go without iPod here. Soon, I heard a cacophony of bells and barks that was growing louder. It dawned on me that my road was going to be blocked. The "Americano loco con camara" (Crazy American with a camera) reappeared. You just know the shepherd is laughing as if to think "Is this the first time he has seen sheep?"

La Iglesia de la Trinidad OPEN

A Beautiful Chapel Followed 

I discovered something for the very first time on my Camino as I entered the village Santibanez fr Valdeiglesias. It was a Church in a small village that was actually open. This gave me great joy as I love seeing where a small village worships. Once inside, two women were busy changing the altar for the Epiphany season but welcomed me. I obtained a stamp for my Pilgrim credential. A Pilgrim obtains a Pilgrim credential when they start their Camino. It is similar to a Passport and it is stamped at each important location along the way. Important is definitely in the eye of the beholder. For example, I had my credential stamped at stops along the way where I had a particularly memorable meal or cool experience. I will present my credential to the Office in the Cathedral in Santiago as proof that I have completed my journey.

I did encounter churches in each small village but they all were most definitely closed. Spain closes down from 25 December - 7 January which explained some closures. Some villages simply had few if anybody living there which explained others.

Does one say "Cheese" to cows?

And Then Livestock 

One of the fun parts of El Camino was the enthusiasm that livestock seemed to display when they willingly posed for pictures. They certainly kept their curiosity of pilgrims who passed by. Sights like this were a very common and delightful experience. They became more common from this point onward.

An Interesting and Uplifting Landmark

A Pilgrim Landmark 

A few kilometers up the road was this statue, rock cairn and cross. It brought a smile to my face as it instilled a sense of community in an otherwise lonely landscape between villages. It is common for "random" messages to be discovered on stones along the way. I don't believe they are random at all. The ones you see are the ones God intended you to see for your Camino to help answer the questions you pose. One I saw read "The Camino is a Gate. We are all passing through." I recognized the Camino to be a metaphor for our life journey and as such this resonated deeply within me. I felt a warm and loving feeling flow through me so I know this was a Divine message.

Modern Day Hermit David lived here devoting his life to serving Pilgrims

The Foundation of The House of The Gods 

It would not be long before I came upon another Camino legend - David of the House of the Gods. Years ago, David gave up all creature comforts of life in Barcelona along with work and family to live simply in a shanty on El Camino. He sleeps outdoors and has no running water nor electricity.

He tells me God called him to a life of serving Pilgrims. He offered a wonderful assortment of food and beverage along with a bed for a donation to any and all. He simply asks you to pay what you can. I was not particularly in need of food nor beverage but was immensely curious about interacting with him. I enjoyed some lemonade made from actual lemons and sweetened with honey from actual bees that was sublime. This was accompanied by fresh bread and peanut butter again with real peanuts and honey which was also sublime. The food was very high quality too similar to what an American or Londoner would find in Whole Foods. I spent about 45 minutes just talking with him. I asked him everything. Well almost everything as I did not wish to inquire about what abandoning his family was all about or how it came to be. Perhaps the whole concept was lost in translation and he simply meant that he moved away from his family the same as I moved away from mine.

He was as sincere and genuine a person as could be. His message to me was "Life is easy. We make it complicated." and to "Love and Serve One Another." which coincidentally were two of the guiding principles given to me by my Guardian Angel on my very first day of El Camino. I don't believe in coincidences so I definitely took note.

A Welcome Sight - Astorga Cathedral and Mountain Pass

And Astorga Came into View 

Astorga and its beautiful 15th century Cathedral came into view from atop the Meseta. It was a welcome sight even though it was still a good 90 minutes away and the formidable obstacle of a high mountain pass and its unpredictable weather loomed on the horizon.

Astorga - Episcopal Palace de Gaudi

Do I Smell Chocolate?

A small Roman medieval bridge led into this wonderful city. Well OK, you crossed this bridge and then had to scale a modern bridge over a set of railway tracks and then climb a lung buster of a hill to find your way into the beautiful historical city. I checked into the nice Hotel Gaudi across from the famous Episcopal Palace.

And after that I was now famished. You see most everything in Spain closes on Sunday so that means you have to have to purchase food from a store on Saturday evening and carry it in your backpack for your Sunday sustenance. That limits your choices to basically small meals throughout the day and in turn I am usually very hungry on Monday. I found a pizzeria that also had a Roast Chicken special. I had been craving a properly roasted chicken ever since I started.  On this day I would eat a whole pizza and an entire roast chicken. After that I found a store that sold nothing but chocolate. Astorga is renowned for very good quality chocolate. Chocolate is not only tasty but is also an excellent energy food so I bought plenty. I would need that for the mountains.

My Tunes for the Day

Another Pink tune that was a daily play. I loved it for a good pick me up on the trail and and I certainly raised my glass plenty on El Camino. No comment on whether I am a dirty little freak, party crasher or panty snatcher but I can confirm that I am in fact too "School for Kewl"!

Day 11 León - Hospital de Orbigo: Trust, Knight Fights and God is in The Suck

León Cathedral

Trust That The Camino Will Provide 

I was leaving León with the knowledge that large mountain passes were coming in 3 days. I was carrying about 1.5 kg / 3 lbs of gear that I did not need. I needed to lighten my load and this meant sending  my gear onward to Santiago. To do this meant leaving this with the concierge of my hotel albeit a super luxurious one. The concierge could not mail this until Tuesday. What was this gear? My Samsung Galaxy tablet and other important personal items. I would not be happy if this were lost or stolen as personal data and precious photos were on this device.

I would have to either trust that the Camino would meet my needs or carry this dead weight over several large mountain passes. I chose to trust the Camino (eg God, Universe) or in this case a Parador concierge and a hotel manager in my Santiago hotel whom I have never met. This did require a fair amount of trust as either party could have easily taken my valuables with very little recourse. Still I felt it more important to risk loss and honor my Camino motto "Trust that the Camino Will Provide." I gave this trust to my Guardian Angel and walked out of my hotel that day. 

Pilgrim Statue after La Virgen del Camino

Would a Taxi Be Best Today? 

Before I started I knew that today's route would be mentally tough as it had a great deal of "The Suck." The scenery today would bring truck stops instead of cathedrals and busy highways instead of nature trails. I really contemplated whether it would be OK to take a taxi and bypass this decidedly non-scenic portion.

This Horse Needed Me in The Suck

Sometimes We Need to be in The Suck 

My Guardian Angel reminded me that the Camino is a metaphor for life; the good and the bad. Sometimes we're needed in the bad. I decided against the taxi and looked forward to walking even if the scenery would leave something to be desired.

I'm glad I did because I made a difference to a living soul that day. I heard some strange rustling to my left. I glanced and I saw something that seemed to be very much out of place. It was a horse tied to a tree in a suburban area beside a highway. Inspecting more closely I noticed the horse seemed to be in some distress because the rope had gotten dangerously tangled around his legs. I looked around for somebody to help because I was not sure what to do. There was nobody. I prayed for guidance and cautiously approached the horse. I consider it a miracle that the horse trusted I was there to help him and let me loosen his rope and untangle him.

Still 298 km / 200 mi to Santiago

I felt I indeed learned a lesson in that situation. Sometimes we need to be in The Suck because others will need us to help them. It was a powerful lesson because I had no idea what to do at first. There was nobody around to help. I took action albeit cautiously and made a difference in that horse's day. I felt God in me and I was ok walking by truck stops and warehouses on this day. I also vowed to see how I could be of assistance to others when I am in The Suck. 

Puente de Orbigo - Site of a famous medieval tournament

When a Knight Loves a Lady 

One of my spiritual reasons for doing El Camino centered around love and a relationship. This bridge leading into Hospital de Orbigo thus held a special meaning to me for its fame of being associated with a love affair.

In 1434 the Leonese Knight Suero de Quiñones held what was likely Europe's last medieval jousting tournament all over a lady. 

The Knight had been scorned by his lady. His first move was to don an iron collar around his neck as a symbol that he considered himself bound to her. Somehow that did not impress her.

He then tried a different angle. He then challenged all the Knights of Europe to bring their lances and meet him on the Puente de Orbigo. It didn't take long for this to go "viral" or the medieval equivalent of this. European nobility who had grown weary of court politic and gruesome dynastic wars yearned for the simpler times where a Knight, by force of his personality and noble cause, could prevail. He became legendary in Spanish history and was mentioned in Don Quixote.

The highly anticipated tourney commenced with much fanfare and a large audience of Pilgrims. The jousting went on for several weeks and after each day's contest the knights and their entourage enjoyed grand banquets in the Corporate Hospitality Tent of the Day. Suero met all his challengers and emerged victorious against all. But as luck would have it one of the knights, Gutierre, was a bit of a bad sport about the whole thing and swore revenge.

Did Suero pine for an ancestor of McKayla Maroney?

On the final day of the Tourney, Suero proclaimed that he proved his fealty to the secret lady but alas she was not impressed. 

He then removed his iron band and claimed to be free of the prison of love. To demonstrate this he vowed to journey to Santiago as a pilgrim. He did and deposited a jewel-encrusted golden bracelet as a token off his release from the bonds of love. That bracelet is in the Cathedral in Santiago.

As luck would have it 24 years later Suero was riding in the open Spanish countryside when he came upon Gutierre who was still holding a grudge. The two dropped their visor and charged. A moment later the quixotic Suero lay dead.

Why didn't he just talk to the lady he loved so?

Albergue in Orbigo

A Camino Lesson on How to Really Serve in The Suck 

I liked how I found myself where I needed to be on The Camino. I was not supposed to be in Orbigo but ended up there because there were no accommodations in the town where I planned to stop for the day. I wound up in much simpler accommodations than in León; An Albergue with no heat, hot water or toilet paper that cost 5 euros.

But I knew that a tourist demands, a Pilgrim accepts. I was thankful for my bed as I was the fellow German, Japanese and Spanish pilgrims I encountered. Hey I ended up sharing a cabin with two 19 yo girls from Barcelona even.

But most importantly about that day was I learned of the story of Karl Leisner. I will leave it to interested readers to read the story in greater detail and encourage them to do so. In short, Karl was called to the Priesthood as a young boy. Through a rather bizarre set of random circumstances, this German youth wound up in  Dachau concentration camp. Through it all, he served his fellow man and gave thanks for his opportunity to do so. He was secretly ordained a Priest as was his lifelong dream and shortly died thereafter.

Suddenly, walking along a highway truck stop and other "Sucks" I experienced that day such as having to trek 12  km / 7.5 mi father than planned seemed minor.

My Tunes for the Day

I loved this song especially when I needed a reminder that my body was electric. Lana Del Rey's Body Electric served that purpose on many a day of my Camino.

Day 10 León: Relaxation, Siesta, Kings, Cathedrals and Comida Deliciosa

Parador Hotel Museum Cloister - León

Breakfast Actually 

The Spanish are not known for their love of breakfast. It usually is skipped altogether but when eaten it is typically just toast and a coffee with milk. In their defense, when you eat dinner at 10:30pm at night you aren't likely to be too hungry the next morning. After 9 days of starting my day with toast and coffee of varying quality I intended to enjoy a long and leisurely breakfast at my hotel. The coffee was quite good. The bountiful choices including the rarely served scrambled eggs was scrumptious. The fact that I could enjoy these while lingering as long as I wished was also just what I needed.

After enjoying my fill until I was satiated I returned to my room for another relaxing soak in the tub before I struck out to explore the culturally and gastronomically rich town of  León.

Museo de Parador de León

My first destination was only steps away as my hotel had an extraordinary museum containing medieval artifacts from the city and the hotel itself which had quite the history itself. It dates from the 12th century, is one of the most important monuments of the Renaissance in Spain and has a storied history.

Parador Museum Cloister

Originally built as a Pilgrim Hospice in 1152 next to the then brand new bridge over the Rio Bernesga it served as a primitive accommodation. It fell into disrepair in the 15th century when King Fernando decided to impress by commissioning the most lavish Pilgrim accommodation on the Camino. It was where Pilgrims of means stayed. Ultimately that is, it took 200 years to complete.

It's next purpose was a more traditional monastery which it was until 1837. It then became a high school, Jesuit residence, a veterinary college (Main Boulevard leading to it still is called Boulevard Veterinary), hospital, cavalry barracks and a military warehouse.  It's most macabre use arguably was that of a brutal concentration camp under the Franco dictatorship. The Spanish government transformed it into the super luxurious hotel and museum it is today.

A Que Hora esta Siesta? (What Time is Siesta?)

Plaza de San Isidoro in León

The first rule of a rest day in Spain is not to try to do too much. I intended to honor that rule. OK since anything of cultural significance was closed until 4pm this rule was enforced. Oh well, when in Spain... I made do with wine and pinxtos (tapas) with spectacular views of places like San Isidoro.  You would be absolutely amazed at all of the Spanish history within view. Don't let this picture fool you. Everybody was out enjoying Siesta. I happened to take it at the end.

The Cathedral

The Cathedral of León

Arriving here was certainly soul stirring. I made a point to spend some time in front taking in this impressive Gothic León Cathedral before I toured the inside. It was even more impressive when one considers the population of the city when it was commissioned. A small town built one of the most important cathedrals in the world at its time. I savored it slowly taking about 2.5 hours to visit the cathedral and museum.

San Isidoro

Cloisters of Basilica de San Isidoro

The church, pantheon, museum and burial vault of the Kings of León made this the cornerstone of medieval history for all of Castilla and León and arguably all of Spain. Here I saw and touched the tombs of 23 kings, 12 princes and 9 counts. I also saw fragments of the True Cross, an ivory casket from 1059, a chalice from the 11th century and the original Codex Legio-nensis Bible which was finished in 960.

A Five Course Feast for "Día de Reyes" (literally "Kings' Day")

Sculpture outside the Cathedral of León

To cap a wonderful day of exploring I decided to partake in a special menu at my hotel to celebrate Epiphany which commemorates the arrival of the three Magi or Wise Men. This is a very important holiday in Spain and is typically when children open their presents. The meal itself was an awesome feat of gastronomy and of course it had a phenomenal wine pairing to accompany it. I savored every bite of every course.

I went to bed that evening well-rested and ready to continue my Camino de Santiago.

 

Day 9 Mansilla de las Mulas - León: Trading Countryside for City of Luxury, Kings and Cathedrals

Camino Sculpture - Mansilla de las Mulas Plaza Mayor

My Solitary Days Are Over

My first 8 days of the Camino were marked by solitude interspersed with the occasional laudatory greeting from country locals, farmers, shepherds, livestock and their dogs for my effort on the Pilgrimage. That would end today as I was entering a big city. I would be trading 1 star hostels and albergues for a 5 star Parador that ranks among the best hotels in the world. Dirt trails would give way to designated bike lanes. Pastures would be replaced with urban parks.

I would walk 20 km / 12.4 mi today. I would start out in the countryside. I would then be made fully aware that a Pilgrim entering a large city does not initially encounter a town wall and then history before their very eyes. Entering this urban landscape my introductions are suburban strip malls, aging factories, fenced in warehouses and then vistas of a mix of distressed commercial real estate and big box stores. This soon gives way to blighted neighborhoods of the urban poor where I feel more an outside oddity than a Pilgrim. Eventually blighted gives way to the gentrified ironically hip urban area. Soon sloppy gashes of yellow arrows usually above bullfight or karate lesson posters are joined by slow-moving cars, odd and quick pacing of many people behind and beside me and high rises, lots of high rises.

I take comfort in big cities but alas let's not get ahead of the story.

Give these geese credit. They were correctly pointing The Way!

An Escort Out of Mansilla

I had the distinct honor of being escorted in and out of villages along the Camino by sheep, cattle, roosters dogs, cats, goats, donkeys but today would bring geese. Quite lively and welcoming fowl they were too. They waddled on over to the camera for their portrait and then proceeded to give me directions while quacking me a "Buen Camino". I'm guessing I was not the first Pilgrim they ever encountered. Their caretaker seemed a bit perplexed at "Un Americano loco con cámara" (A crazy American with camera).

Modern Pilgrim Bridge Alongside Medieval Puente de Villarente

New Alongside the Old

As the countryside would very soon give way to suburban towns of León the last bastion of green was in the small medieval road town of Villarente. I really enjoyed crossing on a sleek, modern Pilgrim Bridge which afforded a view of its 12th century predecessor. 

An artistic local flecha (arrow) in Villarente

More local artistry

I appreciated any and all flechas (directional arrows) that kept me on The Way. I had a special fondness for the more colorful ones such as this one.

This Basset Hound Brought a Warm Smile as I entered León

This Sign from God Waddled and Strolled

 My Guardian Angel promised there would be dogs greeting me as a sign that God was with me, I was loved and I would be protected on my Pilgrimage. It seemed that important cities warranted extra meaningful signs. I encountered a beautiful Dalmatian in Burgos. Imagine if you will the huge smile in my heart when I came across this silly Basset Hound at the summit of a hill entering León. 

For those that don't know, I have two very special Dalmatians (Beethoven 94-08 & Suzy Q 05 - Present)  and a sweet Basset Hound (Sweetpea 04 - Present) in my life.

This little angel with long floppy ears appeared over a hill, gave out a large Basset "Aaaaroooo", came over for a belly rub, posed for a pic, walked a ways with me before deciding there was a more interesting scent in another direction. I imagine the interaction happened like this. As I began my climb up the hill my Basset friend was taking a morning nap in a sunny spot. She was gently awoken by an Angel who exclaimed "Eric is arriving. He needs a special messenger to welcome him into León. Will you answer God's call?" The Basset agreed but figured she had time for a few minutes of lounging until I got there. Hearing the click, clack of my Leki trekking poles she leaped (by Basset standards) over a hill. Of course she wanted a belly rub because that is ingrained in Basset DNA. She followed along for a bit before smelling a rabbit in an afar field. "God, He gets the message and knows the way to León. Glory to you. Aaaaroooo." as she sauntered off.

First View of León atop a Pedestrian Bridge over Highway

The Hill Above León 

Soon any remnants of country would be gone as I crossed over a large Pedestrian Bridge over a busy highway. This bridge would offer a first breathtaking view of the bustling city of León. Minutes away by auto yes but a Pilgrim still had about 2 hours of urban trekking in front of him.
Shortly after I crossed I had yet another funny "Aha" moment. I came across the large and heavily fortified headquarters of a Spanish Bank no doubt filled with many cube dwellers who dreaded going to work in a soul less building devoid of even the most basic architectural flair. I soon caught eye of its next door neighbor.  It was the Castilla y  León State Mental Hospital which appeared to have been designed by the same architect. Having worked most of my life in the Financial Services industry I laughed at the irony.

Puente Castro Once known as one of the Five Wonders of the World

Crossing the Puente Castro Bridge 

After making my way through the less attractive urban necessities a Pilgrim encounters before entering a large city, I finally found the medieval Roman bridge into the city itself; Puente Castro. It was a nice day so many people were out walking and running on the bridge and trails beside Rio Castro.

Alas this bridge leads into the City Center. There still remains a fairly long trek into the historic center and then a bit longer to my highly anticipated room at the Parador.

Well-marked Bike Path

The Way of Asphalt and Bike Paths

I soon was sharing sidewalk with people going about their busy daily lives as well as bicyclists using a well-marked and quite festive designated bike lane. I am a Chicagoan who has lived in Holland. I respect the bike path and knew to look both ways before I took this photo!

Shortly I encountered the two Korean students from the past two days. Like me, they were wondering where their albergue was. I did not have the heart to tell them my hostel was the 5 star Parador Hostel San Marcos. In fairness, their albergue was only a block or two away. I still had 2 km / 1.25 mi to go to mine. After a day of trekking, that distance can seem a bit dauntingly long especially when you are ready for a hot shower and to not have a backpack on your back.

Lovely Park Along Rio Bernesga

A Beautiful Riverside Promenade 

I will say that my final bit of trekking was in an urban oasis making it quite pleasant. I trekked along the Rio Bernesga. This promenade offered some nice Friday afternoon people watching, interesting sculpture and happy dogs out for a stroll. I also let go of any concerns about going out of my way as the path took me along The Camino to the edge of León where Pilgrims would leave the city.

The Luxurious Parador Hostel San Marco de León

Finally My Room for the Night 

After 9 straight days of hiking The Camino, I was in definite need of a Rest Day. I planned to do it in incredible style at this humble convent. OK, it was once a humble convent. It eventually was a place where medieval pilgrims of means would stay. Today it is where this Pilgrim will stay for 2 nights. I will eat very well. I will rest. I will explore the great 1st century city of the Kings of León.

My first order of business though is to luxuriate in a Bubble Bath with a bit of well-earned Cava.

My Tunes for the Day

Pilgrims enter the city through the Barrio de Santa Ana  Money Gate. It is only appropriate to share Steve Miller's "Take the Money and Run" a song I was known to click my trekking poles together during the hand clapping portion.

Day 8 El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas: Big Up in View and Elvis is Alive on the Camino

Meseta Memorial to a Pilgrim on The Camino

More Meseta Please

Today brings another relatively short 20 km / 12.4 mi day. The distances are sometimes dictated by where accommodation is and this was the case through the final stretches of the mesa.

Many find this terrain very mentally challenging as it is often hours on end of terrain that looks exactly like this with no change. I'd been on the Meseta for many days on end myself.  

How did I avoid this Meseta monotony? How did I stave off wishing my Camino away with León anticipation? I said my daily prayer inviting God, Archangel Rapheal and my Guardian Angel along for protection and to open my soul up to communication and signs.  I was thus open to whatever came my way and always enjoyed being in the moment of a life-affirming journey. Sometimes these signs were somber. I saw many Memorials to Pilgrims who had died along the way such as the one in this photograph. Good music helped too. So did knowing amazing wine awaited me at the next village.

And Tales of Medieval Romanesque Porn... Why Yes Please

Romanesque "Architecture"

I learned a rather risque bit of history on my Camino which also helped occupy my mind. It seems the Medieval Church used a novel approach to bring the parishioners into the fold. "Sex sells" is an axiom that applied even in the 11th and 12th centuries and corbels of the Romanesque period were quite obscene by Victorian and Puritan standards. I saw a few here and there along The Way mostly quite provocative female nudes and males pleasuring themselves which are apparently more scandalous to the typical American than European. But the ones befitting a modern Museum of Sex have been removed by a combination of Victorian restorations and thieving art collectors.

I was reading "Off the Road: A Modern-Day Walk Down the Pilgrim's Route into Spain " by Jack Hitt and learned of the some of the more risque examples.

• At the Colegiata de Santillana del Mar is a man and a woman splayed crotch to face, a primitive 69 position.
• At San Martín de Elines is a man exhibiting his penis while tightening a garrote painfully around his neck (autoerotic asphyxia). 
• At San Vicente de la Barquera, a man is taking a woman from behind. They appear almost to be flying. Around the corner is a priest in robes, hiking his skirts to show his erect penis.
• At San Pedro de Cervatos, a corbel shows a woman with her legs pinned behind her ears, offering for public view a finely detailed, naturally proportioned vulva. Beside her is another corbel of a man with a hand on his chest and another fiddling with his visible scrotum and penis. A few corbels down is a man performing cunnilingus on a woman..

Theoretically, these corbels were not intended to tantalize although I think one would have to be a bit naive to think they did not. After all, the human population did survive throughout the 11th century. Rather the official reason for their being was to show the human condition suffered by man and woman outside the church one of them being the mad calling of sex.

The Big Mountains Are In My Near Future

I've been on the Flat Mesa for Days but the mountains are on the horizon

While I am walking on the flat land wearing shorts now I can see the big snow-capped mountains coming into view. This both excites and frightens me a bit. My inner dialogue reminds me of successful treks to and above Mount Everest Base Camp, Machu Picchu and up to the Grand Canyon Rim from the Colorado River. However I noted none of those posed wilderness dangers that could be deadly when faced alone in the winter. Oh my...

Sinín Prieto, the colorful proprietor of Bar La Torre en Reliegos

But Who Can Worry With Elvis?

I soon found my way into the small village of Reliegos with only 6 km / 3.7 mi remaining in my day's trek. With the guidance of a local friendly dog, I very soon discovered Reliegos contained one of the legendary haunts of The Camino; Bar Le Torre (Bar of the Bull). Sinín Prieto, the proprietor is known as the Elvis Presley of The Camino. 

Bar La Torre en Reliegos

My initial plans were to stop in for a quick Coke and head on my way but really an institution such as this that also was serendipitously  playing Dire Straits Walk of Life on the CD player calls a romantic like myself to stay a bit longer.

I thus ordered a steak with fries (Again, real potatoes cooked in olive oil - delish) and a beer or two. The food was wonderful. This place had graffiti on the wall from pilgrims past and I felt compelled to add mine too. The beers were too. It brought a sense of happiness to this Pilgrim. 

Entering Mansilla de las Mulas

Mansilla de las Mulas Town Gate for  Royalty and Pilgrims

This medieval town derived its name from its fame as a Mule Market in the 10th Century. Like many of the towns on the Meseta, it changed hands many times between the Moors and the Christians. I found a nice and quite empty hostal here and began exploring the medieval walls and narrow streets.

I soon found my way into a cafe for a glass of wine and pinxtos (tapas) when The Camino brought me another Angel encounter. "Hola, recuérdeme" (Hi, remember me) a friendly voice says. I look up and see Salvadore who last rescued me from the streets and showed me an Albergue on Day 1. He spoke a bit of English and asked how I was doing. I replied "Gracias, muy bien y tu?" (Thanks, very well and you?) to which he exclaimed he was happy to hear. He then left.

I noted how I was a bit anxious about the mountains and had visited the Pharmacy today to tend to my feet and a small upper respiratory infection. I am thinking this might have triggered his presence.

I never saw Salvadore again. I never saw his name registered in The Santiago Pilgrim Office Records for completing the Pilgrimage. I further checked and found no Google reference nor the end all, be all a Facebook entry.

This is what leads me to believe I likely encountered an Angel.

I headed back to my hostal where I saw the 2 Korean students from the day before and another Portuguese Pilgrim. We shared a Pilgrim Meal and a bit of conversation.

I soon was off to sleep excited about the next day's destination - León and my reservations in one of the world's most luxurious hotels. OK, maybe I was also a little bit excited about Romanesque Cathedral  pornography too.

My Tunes for the Day

I loved bringing  Pink's new record "The Truth About Love" along for the ride. I loved this track and in deference to my rather sexual overtones of my day, I bring you my Walk of Shame. We're walking... we're walking.

Day 7 Sahagún - El Burgo Ranero: God Was With Me on a Beautiful Camino Day

11th Century Puente de Canto leads out of Sahagún to Field of Lances

It's a Sunny but Chilly Morning

I had to wear a heavy fleece for the first time on a Camino morning.  I made my way out of Sahagún via its ancient streets. I soon crossed over the Puente de Canto that dated from 1186 out  into the Mesa. The sun soon warmed things a bit to just chilly so I was back to just my base layer in an hour though.

The Ancient Pilgrim Road Improved?

Beautiful Day on The Way

Today would bring a relatively short 20 km / 12.4 mi hike along what was once an utterly desolate Mesa with few if any terrestrial points of navigation until one reached the village of El Burgo de Ranero which was an oasis in the wilderness. 

The early pilgrims had troubles along this stretch. Just over the medieval bridge lies Charlemagne's legendary Field of Lances. King Charlemagne was waging battle against his CeltIberian villain Aigoland to make the Road safe for pilgrims. The night before a great battle some Christians struck their lances into the ground. At dawn they found their lances had grown bark and were covered with leafy branches.  Astonished by the miracle, they cut them off at the base. The roots gave way to the great forest known as the Field of Lances that remains today.

In the 1670's, a medieval itinerary notes a dead pilgrim was discovered with two wolves eating his body. An itinerary from the 1700's mentions the need to hire a local guide for this stretch to keep from getting lost.

Interesting fecha (yellow arrow)

This 2013 pilgrim found a well-marked, tree-lined crushed gravel path surrounded by a mix of farm land and municipal park land. There were descendants from wolves (eg dogs) but they were friendly and quite well-behaved.

Another eye-catching sign makes local guides unnecessary in 2013

The signs I found along the stretch were more than your official Camino de Santiago issue. Creative signs made my fellow pilgrims and artistic locals always brought a warm feeling and smile to my heart.

A Sign from God and my Guardian Angel

My Guardian Angel Sent a Sign

On Day 1, I met my Guardian Angel and was given 10 principles that were meaningful to my life mission. One of these was that dogs were God's Angelic Messengers of Love to me. I encountered dogs in very comforting ways along my journey. One such happened the fields outside of Sahagún.

A stray farm dog appeared out of the woods and onto the Pilgrim Road about 100 m / 100 yds in front of me. The dog acknowledged me. I smiled and said "Perro Bueno" (Good dog) to show I acknowledged him too. The dog continued to me and got close enough to allow me to pet him and give him a bit of bread. He then sauntered off into the field and then did something rather unusual. He had a wide open field to run but he slowly turned around, executed a Sit/Stay and just watched me. I felt a sense of warm love in this gesture. I thanked my Guardian Angel. I interpreted this to mean that God was letting me know that I was watched, protected and guided on my Camino journey. I should trust completely in this, above all other things. I felt very good in this moment.

El Burgo Ranero Iglesia de San Pedro housed a large stork's nest

Entering El Burgo Ranero

This village was a welcome site indeed. It appears in documents dating from the 12th century. Its name origins suggest twp diverse  etymologies. One suggests that burghers (merchants) sold ranas (frogs) from the town pond. Another notes that the town was called El Burgo Granero (Granary City). There are frogs in the Town Lagoon but I tend to think that its location in the middle of Wheat Country tends to lend more credence to the Granary City version.

God is Present in A Pilgrim Meal

A tasty Paella prepared by a Spanish cook and me his trusty Sous Chef

I found a simple hostel with a lively town bar. I met a very nice Spanish Pilgrim and struck up a conversation in the bar. He spoke a little English even. This was the first Pilgrim I had seen since Day 2 in Castrojeriz. The fellowship was brief but very welcome. Even better, he invited me to a shared meal in the Municipal Albergue across the street.




I arrived to meet 3 other Pilgrims which was amazing given the solitude of my previous 5 days. One was a Spanish cook and the other two were Korean students. The Cook and I soon went off to the market which oddly looked nothing like a market from the outside. This was typical of life in a small village. Everybody knows where the market is so why put out signs or advertising, right?

I truly enjoy cooking and consider it a very intimate gift to give to another person. I really enjoyed being in the kitchen chopping, sauteing and drinking wine. We soon would enjoy a marvelous Pilgrim meal by a warm fire. Cheese and cured sausage as a starter. A phenomenal paella with a delicious salad of lettuce, tomato and fresh minced garlic was the main dish. I supplied the wine and there was plenty. We also shared fellowship and conversation despite the different languages.

Through it all, God was there that evening in the shared meal and the fellowship among a somewhat lonesome pilgrim. He knew I needed a bit of company. Knowing that made this one of my most favored meals.

My Tunes for the Day

Another new to me selection...  ZZ Ward is a very talented soulful singer. I am glad I bought this album as one of my random unheard choices. Put the Gun Down makes for an excellent trekking song too. The beat marks a nice quick cadence and the lyrics make for a nice sing along. This is another of the everyday listens that I never tired off and will be indelibly marked as part of my Camino.

Day 6 Moratinos - Sahagún: An Apparition, Mysterious Whistling Tree and a College Football Miracle

Leaving Palencia, Entering Castilla y Leon

Out With the Old, In With the New

As I left 2012 behind for 2013, I would be leaving the province (US equivalent of a State) of Palencia behind today and entering Catilla y Leon. I also would be enjoying a well-deserved 1/2 day of hiking but never fear Camino fans because The Way would offer its mystery and history in full.

Another Apparition?

The Camino continued on the flat Mesa today. I saw something I had not yet seen on the Camino - another Pilgrim or so I thought. Just after the former Templar village of San Nicolas del Real Camino, I saw another person about 200 m in front of me. The person appeared to be a modern pilgrim in dress and was carrying a backpack too. I followed this person for awhile. I stopped to take a picture and noticed that they simply vanished. There was no alternative path. There was no buildings. They could not have gone anywhere. I was simply astonished and while not averse to the supernatural on the Camino became curious as to what exactly happened. Did I encounter the apparition of a pilgrim who continued onward? Was this an angel watching over me?

And Then a Whispering Tree

This tree captivated me and reinforced a life lesson

I walked a little pondering what happened while enjoying a beautiful day. I was looking forward and walking with a good cadence. I heard something that caught my attention and called me to stop. What was this? A single whispering tree brought about this pause. The whispering in the wind was incessant and in a ways a bit magical. Why was this tree making this curious sound? Why was this tree the only one to have all its leaves while the others were completely barren? Why did I hear it so profoundly? Oh and then I noted that this tree happened to be around the spot where the apparition / angel pilgrim vanished. Was there meaning in this?

Always follow La Concha y Fecha (the scallop shell and yellow arrow)

To me, this was a reinforcement to live in the moment and notice the so-called small things all around you for in time, these can be the big things. Such was this single whispering tree out of the thousands upon thousands of trees I encountered on my journey. God was speaking to me in this. I heard the still voice within.

12th Century Bidge and Church near Sahagún

Entering Sahagún

Sahagún is a small town that was a focal point of the 9th and 10th century wars between Muslims and Christians. It emerged to be the most important religious and economic center in the Province of Leon outside of the capital city. About 2 km / 1.3 mi outside of the town I was captivated by a medieval bridge and church standing alone in a field. It no doubt was built for pilgrims but also likely served as some sort of defensive outpost as it looked to be outside of the city walls. Note the arrow slots above the windows. I pondered what life must have been like for those who lived, worked, defended and visited here.

On a less transcendent note, I also wondered what might be in store for the Menu del Dia (Menu of the Day) as I was a bit hungry even after a 1/2 day of hiking. 

I also was looking forward to some wi fi and ESPN Gameplan International. I might be on pilgrimage but another religious experience was calling me; seeing the Southeastern Conference kick ass in the January 1 Bowl Games most notably my alma mater The University of South Carolina. I was eager to see them go medieval on the University of Michigan at 7pm Central European Time.

Inglesia de San Juan de Sahagún

But first I would explore the town. I attended a Mass at the brightly colored Inglesia de San Juan. Although this is a neoclassical church that clearly does date from medieval times, it contains some very important relics; the remains of 4th century martyrs Saints Facundo and Primitivo from whom the town name is derived.

The Mass was in Spanish but some things translate no matter what the language. I gave thanks in my own way during the parts that did not translate so well.

Impressive Tower of Inglesia de San Tirso in Sahagún

Inglesia de San Tirso dates from the 12th century although the tower fell in 1945 and was reconstructed. The Tower called me to explore. Unfortunately it was closed but I did learn it houses the 13th century tomb of Spanish King Alfonzo X's granddaughter.

I soon found a nice Michelin Guide recommended restaurant on the Plaza Mayor (Town Square) that was very much alive. Older gentlemen were playing cards. Couples were gathered at the bar for Siesta time enjoying wine and conversation. Families with children were at tables enjoying a holiday outing with pintxos (Tapas) and wine. It was nice to be in a happening place after much alone time on the Camino even if I was just people watching.

The Menu del Dia was amazing. I enjoyed a tasty Sopa de Castilla for a starter. This is a very old, peasant-style dish and is typical of the Castilla-Leon Regional Cuisine but it is so tasty. It is a hearty garlic soup with Spanish cured ham, Kidney Beans and Bread. It was one of my favorite dishes. The main course was Roast Lamb and French fries. The fries were **gasp** real potatoes cooked in olive oil. They were sublime. And it goes without saying that the vino tinto de la Casa (Red Wine of the House) was just wow. I got all this for 12 euro / $14.

And about my University of South Carolina Gamecocks I saw them beat Michigan with a 32 yard TD pass with 11 seconds left in the game on a pass thrown by the 3rd string QB to the Point Guard on the basketball team. This propelled them into an 11 win season and Top 10 Final Ranking for the second consecutive year only one of four teams to accomplish this. Fitting that this would happen while I was in a Spanish province where the Rooster figured prominently.

I considered that yet another Camino miracle! I was very happy when I went to bed that night and rested well. I clearly needed that 1/2 day and would enjoy a few more short days en route to Leon before the big mountains came into my radar.

My Tunes for the Day

A Southern boy on a long journey... what better song to be a quintessential record on his Camino play list? Lynyrd Skynyrd Free Bird of course and I had a version that was long and live. One of the, if not the greatest rock n roll record ever recorded and all by a band whose name came from a Junior High School gym teacher.