Day 3 Castrojeriz - Frómista: Trust That The Camino Will Provide

El Camino leaving Castojeriz

Trust That The Camino Will Provide

I slept well despite experiencing the reality of Albergue life; Spanish cyclist guy who violated even the most liberal standards of decency by literally hanging out without pants and showing his junk, passed gas like he was the only one there and snored through the night. Morning brought a modest breakfast and microwaved instant coffee. It however was accompanied by some wonderfully quirky opera music. Alas, despite being a former Chicago Lyric Opera Season Ticket holder, I did not recognize the opera and was remiss in inquiring as to the title. Regardless it was a nice way to start the day.

That morning would bring about a test of faith and reinforce two of the guiding principles provided to me by my Guardian Angel; Trust that the Camino (eg Life, God) will provide and Do Epic Stuff. Some of my friends seemed to be under the mistaken impression that a Winter Camino brought easy access to nightly accommodations as if i could freely choose from a Hampton Inn or Holiday Inn Express. If only it were that simple. The reality is that I left each morning truly not knowing where I would find a bed or a meal. The Spanish close down between Christmas and Epiphany (25 Dec - 6 Jan). Many accommodations make their living off the Camino and also completely close during the winter months.

I planned to travel 26 km / 16.2 mi to Fromista that day. I was made aware that there was no albergue open in or near Fromista. Fromista is a large village / small town so I had no assurance that a hotel would be open either. My choices were to walk a short day of 10 km / 6.2 mi where accommodations were available or trust that the Camino would provide.

I decided that I should trust that a bed and a meal would be provided. After all, this was one of the lessons I was willing to re-learn along the Camino. I said my Daily prayer where I invited the Divine on my Camino and began my longest day to date. I felt really good.

My First Up

The Mostelares Summit and beautiful mesa

As I exited Castrojeriz I thought about that castle and its bloody history of battle and conquest between Christians and Muslims. I shook my head that history certainly has repeated itself over the centuries. Zealots who misused faith to war against others over "whose" God was the right one ignoring that God instructed people of all faiths to "Love thy neighbor as thyself.".  He did that in the Bible and Qur'an.


I left Castrojeriz and discovered my first climb; a 1 km / .62 mi ascent of 12% grade called Mostelares. I adjusted my trusty Leki trekking poles for Up mode and put one foot in front of the other until I reached the summit. There I was rewarded with a 360* view of the beautiful surrounding mesa as well as many rock cairns. I contributed a rock to the one shown. I also noted that the skies showed inclement weather on the horizon.

A Memorial to a Modern Pilgrim who died in 2009 on El Camino

Do Epic Stuff

Once over Mosterlares I saw my first of many memorials left to modern pilgrims who died on El Camino. I felt moved to leave a dried rose, rock and Xmas decoration from my recently deceased grandmother's funeral. I also said a prayer for her as well as the deceased pilgrim's soul.

The memorials to modern pilgrims, the photo memorial of the two pilgrims in Castrojeriz as well as the many medieval cemeteries for pilgrims all drove the point home; Life is short people. As my Guardian Angel told me "Do Epic Stuff". So you know all those things you want to do. Do them NOW! 

A few km down the Camino pretty much out in the middle of nowhere, I happened upon a used condom and wrapper on the trail. I was like "What and who the hell?" Note this was near a country road so the ones getting it on were likely amorous locals and not pilgrims. Or who knows, they say everybody who walks the Camino has the opportunity for a love affair but it is up to them to accept or decline. Oh well, I smiled and walked on.

A Medieval Bridge in the Countryside

The Pons Fiterie bridge dates from 11th century

After passing the village Itero del Camino, I came upon a bridge built specifically for pilgrims.... of the 11th century. I stopped for a break to ponder all who have crossed this bridge before me and obviously to take some pictures. At that time, the Pope commissioned what is thought to be the first travel guide ever written The Codex Calixtinus is a 12th-century illuminated manuscript formerly attributed to Pope Callixtus II. It was anthology of background detail and advice for pilgrims following the Way of St. James. I laughed a bit at its description of the land beyond this bridge.

"The country is full of treasures, gold and silver, fodder and vigorous horses. It has plenty of bread, meat, fish, milk, honey and wine. On the other hand, it is full of evil and vicious people."

I guess it was also the first ever Yelp too!

Colorful bus depot in Itero de la Vega

 Bad Weather

Like I said, it's not a Camino until you encounter sleet and rain that blows sideways. It was not a surprise that I got this for about 15 km / 10 mi in the Spanish winter. I found a colorful shelter and brought out my Gore-tex and backpack cover.

15th Century Iglesia de Santa Maria in Boadilla del Camino 

Out of the Rain, Off the Camino?

Once I entered the small town of Boadilla the rain ceased but the temperatures were now around 2*C / 35*F. I stopped for an excellent pizza and warmth before my final 6 km / 3.7 mi but soon found a lack of yellow arrows. 

Sweet, gentle dog that reminded me of my LaSalle ('04-'08)

 I asked my Guardian Angel for guidance that I was on The Way and a dog emerged from the fields and remained by my side for about 1 km / .62 mi. He seemed sure of the way and led me out of Boadilla. I felt good about the direction. I gave him a biscuit, thanked him and made a few attempts at a photo. He clearly had never had his  picture taken and was wary of my camera.

Unmarked Road Out of Boadilla

I followed this road noting that if it was not the right way I could return to Boadilla and take a taxi to Fromista. It was a beautiful walk and as I came to the end of the road about 1.5 km /  1 mi later I discovered it was the right road. I smiled and was looking forward to a good meal and a private room.

I was walking 1.5 hours longer than any day so far.

11th century Iglesia de San Martin in Fromista

Entering Fromista

Two words sum up Fromista's medieval importance; Wheat and Pilgrimage. Modern Fromista is a small town but still with crop storage and pilgrimage as its main reason for being. I was happy to arrive.





How did my trust work out? I found a hotel but was told they were closed for the winter. There were 3 other hotel / hostel possibilities. 1 was closed. They other had a sign that it was open with instructions to call a number for a room. I called the number and after waiting a bit someone arrived.... to tell me they were not providing rooms during the winter. I had invested an hour looking which seemed longer when I really wanted to get the backpack off my back, take a shower and warm up. I went to my last possibility  rang the bell several times and waited patiently pondering alternatives. Finally, a woman wearing a robe and bath towel opens the door. She is very welcoming and provides a small and simple room with a shared shower. Not 5 minutes later, a few cyclists show up and within 30 minutes the entire 8 rooms she had were full! I was thankful.

Across the street was an absolutely amazing restaurant. I enjoyed a wonderful meal and a private bed.

I trusted that The Camino would provide. It did. I was content that I again followed a guiding principle put forth by my Guardian Angel and was rewarded.

My Tunes for the Day

Hallelujah means Praise to God. I certainly enjoyed music of all types on my Camino. One of my favorite New Age / Spiritual tracks was Sanctum Sanctuorum by Constance Demby. It really took me to my Sacred Space of this; a Sacred Journey. Like myself, the artist lists Sitges as one of her favorite Spanish towns. She lived there. I visited there.