The Epistles of an American Expat and Global Citizen running around the world one adventure at a time. I cook. I eat. I drink. I walk my dogs. I take pictures. Then I write about the humor in it all. I hope it gets you laughing too.
25 days, 516 km / 320 mi, Cities, Villages, Pueblos, Plains, Hills, Mountains, Ocean, Alburgues, Hostels, Pensions, Hotels, One "Best Hotel in the World", Sunny, Cool, Warm, Rain, Torrential Rain, Snow, Sleet, Blizzard, Dogs, Cats, Cows, Bulls, Horses, Sheep, Wolves, Bears, Hens, Roosters, Donkeys, Ducks, Geese, Storks, Medieval Bridges, Soccer Players, Templar Knights, Bartenders, Award-winning Chefs, Sommeliers, more than a few lost souls and even some fellow Pilgrims encountered. These were all part of an amazing life-affirming and life-changing adventure that I experienced as I successfully walked across Northern Spain alone in the dead of winter. This was my Camino de Santiago.
The Camino de Santiago is a very personal journey; A Medieval Christian Pilgrimage to the Cathedral in Santiago (Galicia) that has the earthly remains of the Apostle James who was one of Jesus' most trusted friends. Pilgrims have walked the Camino for over 1000 years for a variety of reasons. Once one successfully completes the Pilgrimage, their name is entered into the official records alongside all that came before them with the reason for their journey.
My official reason was "Religión y Otras Razones" (Religion and Other Reasons). Simply stated, I came seeking spiritual answers. I found them. I came seeing if I had the mental fortitude to hike alone for days on end in a variety of weather. I got up every day and I did. I came seeing if I had the physical ability to hike with a 12 kg / 25 pound backpack over such a long distance with diverse terrain. I dropped 130,000+ calories, dropped 12 kg / 25 pounds and I did.
So today I finally arrived in Santiago de Compostela. I would like to tell you that I completed my pilgrimage in a somber and humble manner. I didn't. I strutted with a smile on my face as wide as can be. Sure I was very thankful for God delivering me on a safe journey but I was immensely proud of myself for listening to the signs to "Just Do It", to take that first step so many days earlier and to keep on going day in and day out. My motto was "Fíese de que el Camino proporcionará" (Trust that the Camino will provide). It did with daily miracles that were there for those who had eyes to see them.
The Eric who started the Camino is not the Eric who finished the Camino. I made myself physically, mentally & spiritually vulnerable to God out there. I emerged a better person because of this. El Camino fue solo el principio; Mi viaje continua (The Camino is only the beginning; My journey continues).
I began my day with mixed emotions. I was cautiously nervous heading up a big mountain pass by myself knowing I could find myself in a number of life threatening situations from snow, cold, and wildlife. Help would not be close at hand. I also was a bit melancholy that today was the last ascent of a major mountain pass. I enjoyed the mountains for their serene beauty as well as the sense of accomplishment that came from climbing them.
I'll soon leave rain for the snow
I would have time to contemplate all of the things going through my head as I still had to cover 5km / 3.1 mi through the valley before the path turned upward. I passed through several medieval hamlets before arriving in Hospital Ingles, a village dating from 1178.
To my pleasant surprise, there was a bar / cafe open. That is a highly unusual thing to find on a in Spain especially in such a small hamlet. I went in and got a cafe con leche and a seat by the fire before beginning the rest of my day which would be straight up a mountain into the snow.
18th Century San Andres Church near La Faba
An Angel in Human Form
I climbed for about an hour or so until I reached the small hamlet of La Faba. I stopped to admire the church when I hear some noise. To my surprise, Salvatrice (Salvation in Italian) from Rome was walking up the Camino near the church in the picture. I last encountered Salvatrice on my very first day on the Camino when I was in serious need of assistance and shelter. She rescued me that day, led me to shelter and told me how I could get food.
This time I felt Christian love, warmth and a sense of fellowship seeing her again. I had not seen a single soul on The Camino to date. We chatted a bit. She asked if I was alright. I replied that I was. I did notice she was dressed rather oddly for someone trekking a long distance. I also took note that it was very unusual not to have seen her at all over the previous 18 days. I took note that she appeared on the morning I mentally thought about the possible danger of today's trek. I told her I was going to stop into this small albergue cafe before we encountered the snow and steeper portion. She declined and said she was walking onward. I never saw Salvatrice again. Taking all these observations into account along with a few others which I will share later I am confident I encountered an Angel in human form on The Way of Saint James. It was pretty neat and I felt divinely protected as I trekked upward.
And Very Cool Refugio
Cool Refugio in La Faba
I stopped into the refugio (Very basic hostel) cafe before the final and most difficult stretch of the day. I met the most gracious host in a German / Galician guy named Hanz. He told me about how was 23 and was tending to the place over the winter. He was a self-sustaining farmer besides an innkeeper. I know the unemployment rate in Spain is near 50% for people like Hanz and thus I felt compelled to minister to him by spending money. I wasn't terribly hungry but he offered lunch and drink. He brought out some incredible warm homemade bread and cheese from his farm. They both were off the chart good with deep, complex flavors. I also drank a nice house wine and coffee. I asked "Cuanto es" (How much?) and he told me a donation would suffice. I gave him 5 euro which is the going rate for a bed in a place like this but I still felt like I underpaid. He insists on giving me change. I refuse. He is so incredibly thankful that he insists I also take some kiwi. I could not refuse him. We both were made happy with that encounter.
Above the tree line and into the snow zone after La Faba
Enter the Snow
I walked out of La Faba and the conditions changed very quickly as I entered the snow zone. At first there were gently flurries and only a dusting of snow on the ground. Next was beautiful heavy flakes and 7 cm / 2-3 in of snow on the Camino. Finally it turned absolutely beastly with over 30 cm / 12 " of snow on the ground and very limited visibility leaving no visual clues to The Camino versus a fall to a likely death. I made a point to stay as far away from the trail edge as possible.
Weather Was Now Beastly
And Evidence of a Wolf
As I gained elevation I became further from civilization. I knew there were bears up here as well as other forms of wildlife. I made a point to be as loud of possible to lessen my chance of an encounter. And then I looked down and exclaimed to myself "Whoa, that is a fresh wolf track in the snow." Intellectually I know that wolves in Spain associate humans as very bad news and the most likely scenario is that the wolf heard me long ago and was increasing his distance between me and him / her. I was fairly certain I was not being stalked but having such a reminder that I am really in the wilderness was a bit sobering to say the least. This is really an area where people need to be rescued or die.
The Border of the Province Galicia
Entering Galicia
I soon came to the marker signaling that I had entered Galicia. This was an exciting landmark as Galicia was the final Province on my Pilgrimage. I also knew I closing in on O Cebreiro and the security of civilization Seeing this lifted my spirits considerably and I felt far less isolated than moments ago when I was out of deep snow with fresh wolf tracks.
Rock Fences Mean People - O Cebreiro
Strange Noises Ahead
Pretty soon I began hearing something very much out of place in the wilderness. It sounded like lots of people playing. I knew nothing about what to expect in O Cebreiro. The last mountain pass summit village, Foncebadon, was desolate with maybe 10 people living there. I thus had no expectations for O Cebreiro.
The rounded a pass and the Camino soon leveled. I also noticed a nice rock fence and trees that were clearly forested. This was a sign of civilization and the noises also became more pronounced and louder. There were definitely many people outside.
Civilization and Snow Pilgrims
I entered the village and was very pleasantly surprised. O Cebreiro was somewhat of a snow resort. There were taverns, restaurants, B&B's and a large Winter Sports hill. The place was the most busy hamlet I encountered on the entire Camino. It was a medieval village with ancient charm but resembled the hustle and bustle of a ski village.I secured a room in a quaint B&B. I gasp had to make a reservation for a late lunch because the place had a Wait List.
O Cebreiro was a quaint village with a rich history. It dates from the 9th century. The Holy Grail was hidden here. It is noted for its architecture. It is predominated with low, oval stone houses with hugging thatch roofs. This palloza style dates back to Celtic times.
I walked around the village and got my Pilgrim Credential stamp from the local medieval church. I settled down in my warm room which was nice because the wind chills would fall below 0*F outside.
My Tunes for the Day
The Verve "Bittersweet Symphony" was an excellent companion as I trekked up this mountain. It's been a favorite of mine ever since it has been on my endurance training playlist. The song has gotten me though many a long run or trainer ride. It has very pleasant association of endurance accomplishment. I now associate it with accomplishing the climb up a Camino High Mountain Pass.
12th Century Medieval Bridge Leading Out of Villafranca
Easy or Freakin' Cool
I awoke well-rested and happy to be in a hostel that had a lovely view of the river and breakfast included. It was a very nice way to start the day.
The day would offer me a choice. I could either take the "Camino Lite" or the "True Pilgrim" route. The Camino Lite route took the valley road. This was flat, steady terrain and was 1.5 km / 1 mi shorter. It certainly was more prudent.
I took the high road out of Villafranca
The True Pilgrim was vertical from the start. It was uphill, uneven, wet and slippery terrain for 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent followed by a gnarly, almost straight 2 km / 1.25 mi treacherous descent. It would take about 2 hrs longer and it was raining steadily.
Guess which one I chose? My Guardian Angel told me to do epic stuff. Always go with an option described as gnarly in life.
Mountain Village of Trabadelo
The Cafe Free Summit
Although the province border of Leon extends to another day's walk, the village architecture and flavor are now pure Galician. They are smaller; more hamlets than village. They consist of a few stone houses clustered around a tiny stone church. The cow population increased. Stone fences divide land into smaller plots. The farmers and locals were quite friendly too.
After a few hours of strenuous climbing I arrived at the mountain top village of Trabadelo. I so desired a Pilgrim credential stamp to show I took this route and a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) to warm me up. There were signs along The Camino that suggested a cafe was open in the village. But alas after a walk through the charming hamlet I saw the cafe / bar was closed. I was devastated. I broke down in tears and wanted to quit my Camino. OK, I didn't. I really walked with this friendly farmer and his rather large horse back to his field / my Camino Trail.
Stone Church of Trabadelo
What Goes Up Comes Down
I arrived back on the Camino. The 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent would be followed by a very steep 2 km / 1.25 mi descent. The going was slow because every step had to be taken with care but time was of no essence. I enjoyed being present in the moment and enjoying the glorious valley views. I also felt very much alive for choosing the "True Pilgrim" route over "Camino Lite." It should also be noted that during medieval times the "Camino Lite" version was extremely dangerous with murderous thieves. However, those that chose the "True Pilgrim" route faced a financial mugging too. The Castle Auctares stood on the exit from Trabadelo and the lords supported themselves by taxing (eg extorting) the Pilgrims until King Alonso VI put a stop to the practice in 1072. As I always say, they were mugged just the same except there was no violence involved and the terms were usually known in advance.
Medieval Bridge Along Tranquil Vega de Valcare
Thou I Walk Through The Valley...
In this case, it was far more tranquility than death so no evil was remotely feared; just the next rain outburst. I had a short and very enjoyable walk for the final 5 km / 3.2 mi before the next day's climb into snow-capped mountains at altitude.
Angelic Messages Came Just The Same
Although the day was intentional short distance-wise, my Guardian Angel and Spirit Guides were present with plenty of uplifting messages. Some may see these as mere chance encounters of graffiti left by others. My world view does not believe in coincidences. Everything happens for a reason. There were no doubt thousands of messages like this on The Camino. I was placed in the right place at the right time to see these.
I felt my Camino calling and life path was affirmed.
I was in a very big life transition. I felt content that things would be ok.
This was the EXACT message my Guardian Angel gave on Day 1
Dogs serve as a message of God's love. I loved this guy!
Where Would I Sleep?
The Camino followed a busy interstate and eventually crossed paths with a hotel / restaurant / service station about 3 km / 2 mi from my planned destination. It was somewhat important I cover as much distance as possible today because the next day was going to be spent climbing a mountain.
I rested a bit with a Coke for energy before I went the final stretch which would take me into 3 hamlets that were very close together. It started to rain pretty heavy and I was thus eager to find a place to sleep. The first hamlet had nothing open. However I did encounter the sweetest German Shepherd who smiled and posed for my camera. I took this as another message that I was not alone on my journey here and would find shelter soon. I passed the second hamlet and nothing was open while the rain came down harder.
Small Chapel near Vega de Valcarce
My Options Were Bleak Until...
I finally came into the third hamlet. It was a dark and stormy night. It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. You know the literary devices so I will go no further. I was also starving. I looked and looked and looked - nothing.
I was going to walk up one more block before I would decide to walk the 3 km / 2 mi back to the known hotel. There was a hostel sign advertised. I came upon the hostel and it was closed tight. There was a hair salon next door though where a woman was cutting a man's hair. As I started to walk away I heard her calling me from afar. She opened the door for me which led to a nice albeit very empty albergue with bunk beds. She gladly accepted my 8 euros and I had a bed and an albergue all to myself. I then found a lovely warm shower too. All was well.
Once squared away, I walked into "town" to find a nice market open. It was Saturday and it is best practice to buy food for Sunday because you do not know if anything will be open on the Camino on a Sunday. I then found myself in the community bar next door. I enjoyed plenty of wine (eg nearly a bottle) and delicious tapas for all of only 4 euros.
I also was quite amused. I was in the bar with hill folk. There were hunting trophies and things like stuffed squirrels throughout the bar. Old men played cards at the tables. I wore REI clothing and Crocs. I ahem didn't blend. I imagine they got a kick out of the stranger too.
My Tunes for the Day
Lana Del Rey was all new to me. I purposely picked new records for my Camino experience to accompany my classic play lists. While a mountain valley in the northwest corner of Spain was about as far away from cruising down Hollywood and Vine as you could imagine, It was Saturday though and I loved listening to "Burning Desire" everyday of my Camino.
Quaint chapel in Compostilla just outside of Ponferrada
Pilgrim Waks Into a Bar
I started my day off wearing brand new Smartwool trekking socks and boots warmed by a radiator on a complete day of rest . Just the bliss I needed to exit the maze that was The Way out of Ponferrada. It is not unusual for the Camino signs to get lost in the visual noise of a large city and I had to pay very close attention until I got out into the lovely suburban town of Compostilla.
Once there, I decided an additional navigation enhancer, Cafe con Leche Grande, was well in order. I stopped at a non-descript bar behind this chapel which again appeared closed by American standards. I did not let appearance deter me and walked right up and opened the door. An attractive female soon took my order. The only customers were a group of ladies in their 30's - 40's enjoying a Friday morning coffee friendly ladies' date. The conversation soon became heated and thus a bit more interesting to this pilgrim. It was more of a friendly disagreement that was verbally escalating than a budding cat fight between hated rivals. The bartender and I made eye contact and laughed a bit at the altercation. One woman began yelling even more loudly at the others when one of the others rolled her eyes and exclaimed, "Claro...tiene cucarachas en la cabeza." (Of course.... You have cockroaches in the head). I gave the bartender an "Oh no she di'nt" gasp and smiled with deep content at the very first insult entirely in Spanish that I comprehended in full on my Camino. The lady allegedly with cockroaches in the head steamed out of the bar. I laughed as I headed out on my Camino.
This Canine Spirit Guide Called Me for Eggs and Beer
And Then Another Bar
By the time I arrived at the next village my stomach was inquiring about food. It was about lunchtime. A very friendly dog approached and walked by my side as if to guide me. He walked ahead, sat down outside this bar and looked at me as if to say "This place has a lovely Pilgrim menu del dia." He sold me. By the looks of the inside I could tell this place was quite lively during the busy season.
Today it was just me and several local men drinking beer and talking La Liga football (Spanish soccer). I did note with a bit of humor that the men of Bierzo could get along just well over beer and sports talk but give the women caffeine and a quiet bar and you are asking for a fight to break out. I decided to vote for peace and enjoyed a lunch of bacon, eggs & a Galician lager beer.
Spanish Love Naked Lady Statues
Onto The Bierzo Wine Country
I was blessed with a beautiful but crisp January day as I trekked. And I soon was going to be blessed with gorgeous scenery to match. I was entering the Bierzo Wine Country which meant The Camino would be surrounded by vineyards for the remainder of the day. The vines were all dormant of course and my only company was the occasional farmer out tending to the land. However I could tell this was probably the slowest terrain of the summer as there were many roadside wine tasting shacks that no doubt did a robust business. There was also the occasional Naked Lady sculpture. The Spanish appeared to love these. I obviously did too.
Another interesting hand-made flecha (arrow)
Then to Camponaraya
The Way was lovely as vineyards temporarily gave way to wooded trails. Hand-made signs gave the Camino a more mystic feel than usual through this section. Maybe that was a bit of Camino foreshadowing as I soon would experience another interesting encounter.
Another Angelic Sign? Dog Out of Nowhere
Canine Angel Greeting
My Guarding Angel told me that God uses dogs in my life to show love and in turn I am to minister to dogs. This makes perfect sense given the role dogs have played in my life. I stopped just before the village of Cacabelos to rest a bit before my final walk to Villafranca.
I was approached by a dog who seemed to appear out of nowhere. He was comforting and at the same time curious of me. He stayed by my side the entire time I rested. When I got up to leave he followed but only to the edge of the rest area. I thanked him for his company and lovingly exclaimed "Perro bueno" (Good dog) before leaving. He wagged his tail as if to say "Buen Camino." I took a few steps and looked back. The dog had completely vanished as if into thin air. I waited and looked to see if he went behind a tree or some such. I never saw him. This was very unusual because there was no place he could have easily gone that would have been out of my sight. I took note of this with a "Wow"!
Was this an angel or a spirit guide sent to check on me? I have no idea but I can say I did enjoy the company and felt happy for having had the experience.
Interesting sculpture in a Vineyard
Vineyards into Villafranca
The Way out of Cacabelos was adjacent to a busy rural highway and quite hilly. There was also a strong headwind which made it mentally taxing. Eventually the Camino turned off onto dirt trail along vineyards which was much better for the final km of the day. Some rather interesting sculpture in the style of Gaudi caught my eye. It was beautiful but quite unusual. It seemed a bit out of place in a vineyard. I stopped a bit to take it all in as this too was meant to be a part of my Camino experience.
There was a village off to my left in the distance. That usually is a Camino sign that means this is where you will stop for the night. I noticed that the Camino was making no progress to that village which was a bit disheartening for a tired pilgrim who is also going uphill. At the top of the hill, I saw the medieval village that was Villafranca. I was right there and my spirits lifted. It turns out that the little town I saw was Corullon. It has 3 extraordinary Romanesque churches but I had no desire to go the extra 3 km / 2 mi to get there late Friday evening as the sun was going down and a misty rain was in the forecast. Just food and shelter was on my mind.
Early 12th Century Medieval Bridge in Villafranca
Where Will I Sleep Tonight
I arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo from atop a big hill. Villafranca is one of the best preserved medieval towns on the Camino and one of its prominent features is steep stairs leading to its impressively beautiful Plaza Mayor (Town Square). I did take note of an open Alburgue atop the hill.
However if I committed to staying here I would have to walk downhill in the cold rain to get food and then uphill back. I decided to take my chances downhill. I would be walking up mountain ranges soon enough. There is no need to add hills when I should be resting after a long trek.
I arrived into the Plaza Mayor. It was beautiful and there were plenty of places to eat but all the hostels and hotels were closed. There was a sign advertising a hostel further down the Camino though. I had no assurances that it would be open so my choices were to walk back uphill to the sure thing or keep on going a bit to the advertised hostel which would also reduce my next day's walk by 1.5km / 1mi. I chose to gamble and look for that hostel.
Searching for this hostel took much more work than I thought. I was about ready to turn around and backtrack to the albergue when I finally saw a sign that pointed basically down a back alley near the river. I followed it and saw a place that looked very much closed. I rang the doorbell. What do you know; Somebody answered. I was taken to a very nice room with a nice shower and good heat too. Just what I needed as the rain started coming down outside. I took a shower and soon headed off to enjoy a nice Pilgrim Menu del dia (Menu of the Day). I fell asleep quite content and ready for the next day's challenge. I was once more going up into the mountains.
Villafranca was essentially a "foreigners' town" as described in a document from 943. Modernization had completely passed it by and it was one of the few Camino towns that had retained all its preserved medieval architecture and charm. It would make an excellent Rest Day to experience the rich history and medieval architecture while getting ready for the mountain effort.
My Tunes for the Day
I loved this song. I spoke to me on my Camino journey since I was on a spiritual crossroads of major transition in my life too. I literally was experiencing most of the Top 10 Life Stress Events all concurrently. At the same time I was being divinely called to walk across northern Spain in the dead of winter too. I also encountered a fair amount of rain on The Way so the symbolism was evident. I would not be along through this.
One of the benefits of a rest day is the chance to do very important things like wash and dry all your clothes. Most good gear will dry overnight but certain items such as Smartwool hiking socks need a good bit more than 12 hours to dry completely. I also had time to take care of some personal matters and make a guilty pleasure purchase - new Smartwool socks and glove liners. I also had time to take a long hot relaxing soak in the tub.
Another Camino mystery - Saint Amy Adams praying?
Another Camino Mystery
I came upon this outside of Ponferrada. Why was American actress Amy Adams praying for a hot chick who is holding a parrot and wearing a leopard spotted bra? Why is the woman wearing a toga pointing at her? I am sure there is a deep meaning in there somewhere; I am just not sure what it is! It did bring a smile to my face. Maybe that was the meaning.
My Guardian Angel Provided a Valuable Camino Lesson - Knock on Doors
Knock on Doors
My Guardian Angel introduced himself to me on Day 1 of my journey and gave me 10 life principles that I should learn / apply to my Camino experience and life journey. It was a surreal and meaningful happening. One of those was "Knock on More Doors. Opportunity Awaits but you have been timid to chase it at times."
It was a valuable lesson to learn and apply during the winter in Spain. Important needs on The Way of Saint James often were behind doors that appeared closed and locked by American standards and appearance. As I progressed I became more willing to approach seemingly closed buildings to see if they were in fact open. Had I not done so I would have slept outdoors in the cold of January and missed many meal opportunities. Today I really wanted a Pilgrim Credential stamp from the beautiful Basilica in Ponferrada. There are no signs "Get your credential stamp here!" flashing to lead the way. However there was a Catholic School attached to the Basilica. I saw what I thought to be a Head Master's office behind locked doors. I mustered up the courage to knock on that door. I spoke confidently in Spanish while presenting my Pilgrim credential. I got a warm "Buen Camino" and I got that stamp. I know I would not have done that on Day 1 of my Camino.
The Camino again is a metaphor for life and this lesson has deeper implications to my life than a stamp or a three-course meal. I have been bold in chasing personal goals be it an Ironman Triathlon or adventure trek but I have been hesitant to put myself out there at times in life. I have sometimes been unwilling or unable to ask for help when I needed it. I have often not approached others to communicate what I need. This weakness in me has hampered not only my life journey but other's who have crossed my path. My Guardian Angel as usual is loving and right. I do need to knock on more doors.
Templar Castle is said to contain Holy Secrets
Of Castles, Cravings and Pinxtos
The remainder of my rest day was spent leisurely sampling wine and pinxtos (tapas), visiting the small but worthwhile History Museum and of course the Templar Castle. The History Museum was surprisingly interesting. It had much Camino history and tombstones dating from the 1st century that were amazingly well-preserved. The Templar Castle is said to contain either secrets regarding the locations of the Ark of the Covenant and Holy Grail or perhaps the artifacts themselves. It had also had one of the most impressive library of medieval books albeit most were reproductions. I did not locate any Holy Secrets but I did get some amazing photos. A friend of mine commented that one looked like a decorative ladle. It actually was the view from an archer defensive opening within the castle.
Photo inside the Castle Walls
After 15 days of trekking I guess it is not unusual to get some cravings. What were mine? I was absolutely yearning for some Tex Mex food and interestingly enough the Camino did provide. What likely is the only Tex Mex restaurant in the whole of Spain happened to be on the Town Square just down from my hotel.
And after a night of guacamole, burritos, wine and pinxtos I returned to my hotel to pack my clean, dry clothes and get a good night's rest. The second big mountain pass awaits.
My Tunes for the Day
Dar Williams "Closer to Me" has always been meaningful to me. It speaks to my sense of adventure and self-discovery. I also chose it for the Memorial Service for my beloved fur-ever friends Beethoven the Wonder Dalmatian and LaSalle the Rescued Rottweiler / Lab mix. It brings memories of them and all the wonderful places I've seen with a back pack. It also fit right in with my Camino journey. I often found myself hitting Repeat on my iPod Shuffle.
I was off for a second long 26 km / 16.2 mi day over difficult terrain and my friend Katia was off to yoga. I said my goodbyes and left. I was only about 2 km / 1.25 mi from one of the most sacred places on the Camino, Cruz de Fierro (Cross of Iron) and was contemplating my arrival while processing all that happened the prior day. I began my contemplation as I passed by the medieval ruins pictured
Cruz de Fierro
The Presence of God
This is an oft overused phrase sometimes sadly spoken with only vague meaning. Today would not be one of those days. I could feel the Divine God as I got within a few hundred meters of Cruz de Fierro. I could feel positive warming energy envelope my entire being and vibrations that echoed through my core. I felt loved. I felt connected. I assure you these were very real experiences and not just some literary device of new age metaphors. It was immensely cool.
Modern Pilgrim Offering
The Cruz de Fierro is a monument located on the highest point of the Camino de Santiago. It has medieval origins and ancient pilgrims left a stone in honor of their safe passage. Modern pilgrims continue that tradition by leaving a stone and sometimes a memento. Their reasons are as varied as there are numbers of pilgrims. I left two stones and a symbol of things I intended to unburden myself of going forward.
My Offering God = Love Good Journey
I carried a rock from my favorite beach in Bermuda as it is tradition to carry a rock from your homeland. I left this as a Thanksgiving for a safe journey and as a Prayer to honor my efforts on the Camino. I also carried a rock from the grave site of my mother and grandparents. My grandmother passed away at 100 yo before I left on my Camino. I wanted to honor them. Lastly, I left some work documents from a rather toxic and unhealthy work situation that seriously impacted my personal life. I left this as a symbol that I would be leaving all that was symbolized by that experience behind and let it go. I prayed and meditated on a chapel bench facing the Cruz de Fierro for quite awhile.
When I felt ready, I made a final ascent up the rock pile to touch the cross where I asked God to allow all the positive energy that this sacred place represented over time come into my being. I left but not without leaving a final message for pilgrims who would follow in my footsteps "Dios = Amor Buen Camino" (God = Love Good Journey). I had an immense feeling of elation and energy. I also was now going downhill.
Tomas the Templar - Camino Legend in Manjarin
A Templar Knight
It would not be long until I entered Manjarin and encountered the dwellings of a Camino legend, Tomas the Templar Knight. As a pilgrim approaches, Tomas rings his bell loudly to welcome them. Tomas dresses as a Templar Knight. This very small and currently deserted village has its history dating from the 12 century as a Templar outpost to protect pilgrims crossing the mountain.
Tomas maintains a very primitive refugio (eg hostel) that has no running water, electricity or toilet. I wasn't interested in that but he also had a dog. "Donde esta su perro" (Where is your dog?) was the first question I asked. Tomas also offered cafe con leche and snacks on a donation basis. His refuge could not have come at a more perfect location for me. No sooner than I entered, a torrential rain storm with gale force winds struck. My serious rain gear was in my back pack. I got nearly naked in front of this man. I gore-tex'd up. I made a contribution to his Pilgrimage signs (Wrigley Field) as shown in the picture and I was on my down.
A storm is brewing off Monte Irago Pass
Downhill in a Gale
Once I left Manjarin two things came imminently apparent. The first was that I was on a serious descent. Trekking downhill can be and often is harder on the body than uphill. I really needed my Leki Trekking poles to make this day easier on my knees and quads. These poles allow you to transfer a great deal of the work to your core and upper body when used properly. I absolutely love my Leki Trekking poles.
The second was that the weather was going to be quite fierce. The cloud bank in the photo brought pretty high winds, sleet and rain that came at me from above, the side and even sometimes from below. While I knew I was innately protected on this journey I was a bit concerned going through the thick of this storm. Thank God I walked out of it in about an hour.
Beautiful Camino scenery
Once the weather was not a serious concern I still had a few hours trekking down the mountain. Part of it required very deliberate footing as it was dangerously slick. Part though was serenely beautiful and made for an enjoyable Camino experience.
Molinaseca where I crossed a 12th century bridge
The Valley Brings Relief
I came off the mountain quite thankful for my safe descent. Molinaseca was a welcome site indeed. It was a beautiful town that was quite wealthy in medieval times and had some nice homes that seemed to indicate it still retained its status as a wealthy enclave. It was charming enough that I considered staying here for the night and having a short walk into Ponferrada the next day but it seemed mostly closed. I decided to press onward for the final 10 km / 6.2 mi.
I knew this decision would have me walking my last hour in the dark but was not concerned since I would be walking mostly in suburban or urban areas with some street lighting to guide me.
I came upon a local woman out speed walking for exercise on the outskirts of town and quickened my pace to keep up with her. This worked until she followed the main road and I had to turn off onto a Camino Trail. It was shortly thereafter that I actually encountered my first pack of feral dogs. They were about 10 and mostly small to medium sized. However they were very territorial and one was very interested in attacking if given the chance. Fortunately, I am very adept at reading dog body language and was easily able to fend the dogs off with my body language. I did not have to harm them either.
Templar Castle - Ponferrada
Finally Ponferrada
The stretch into Ponferrada was slightly demoralizing. The main basilica had a beacon light which could be seen for miles. The Camino Trail however seemed intent on circling the town without making progress towards it. I was hungry and it was dark so I finally was relieved when the path changed direction toward the actual town.
After crossing over a large 11th century bridge which gave the town its namesake "Pons Ferrata" (Iron Bridge) and passing through the town wall, one of the first things I saw was the large and imposing Templar Castle. I wanted to experience the Camino as I walked it so I did minimal research as to what was in each town or village. I had no idea there was such a large and historically important castle here. Legend and lore holds that keys to the Holy Grail and Ark of the Convenant are located within these walls.
So with a castle, a cathedral and culinary specialties combined with the fact that I was still one day ahead of plan meant one thing; I was taking a much needed and deserved rest day in Ponferrada.
My Tunes for the Day
This was an awesome tune that I listened to every day on the Camino. Pink - Just Give Me a Reason gave me pause to reflect on the spiritual matter of my damaged relationship and it also had a perfect trekking cadence.
And bringing chocolate.... One of the important things for a Pilgrim to remember is that Saint James' bones have been at rest for centuries. They will wait another day or two for your Santiago arrival. I was a day ahead of schedule and thought about taking an extra day in Astorga. I balanced that against my admittedly aggressive schedule over the potentially dangerous mountain passes and decided to press onward.
To give you some perspective on how others have noted the terrain on today's journey I offer a document dating from 1790:
The nature of the landscape is extremely rough and fearsome, and then from nearly the first of September until the end of May the pass is closed. The neighboring villages put up cairns to mark the route and if this is not sufficient, they dedicate themselves to guide, accompany, house and thaw out the poor pilgrims who insist on going to Galicia.
My trepidation was a bit justified as you can see. I decided against spending the extra day in Astorga in case I needed the extra day to get over the mountain but did not did rush out of town before stopping to visit the Cathedral. I prayed for strength and safe passage. Above all else, I knew I was divinely protected on my Camino but practically speaking I knew that no mortal soul had a "Get Out of Jail Free" card against gross stupidity. It was January and I diligently checked the weather before I proceeded into the eerily foggy day.
Entering Valdeviejas (Valley of The Old Women)
Change is the New Paradigm
The landscape, climate and townscape all changed kilometer by kilometer today. Perhaps the greatest change is the village architecture. The villages are now made of stone with roofs of locally mined slate or even thatch.
Frost begins above Valdeviejas
Fog and cool temperatures gradually give way to freezing temperatures and frost on the foliage. That foliage is more alpine and soon will give way to scrub bush as each step brings a gain in altitude. There is other change as well; positive change. I am feeling unexpected but welcome energy off the charts as I climb. I guess wine, good chocolate and prayer are the answers to all Camino needs.
Flecha (Arrow) pointing to Rabanel del Camino
Where I Need to Be
Like many Pilgrims before me, I started my journey with a detailed plan on an Excel spreadsheet. This plan included daily destinations, daily & accumulated distances as well as sunrise & sunset. I however have learned a very valuable life lesson through international travel, trekking and endurance racing adventures that things rarely go to plan and that is not only OK but very good. And so it is with The Camino. I learned it will take you where you need to be which is not necessarily the same place as where you planned to go.
Walking into my planned destination of Rabanel
I originally planned to go to Rabanel del Camino. I arrived at Rabanel when a trekking day typically ends and I was looking forward to getting my back pack and hiking boots off. Rabanel did not greet me as expected though. I encountered a deer carcas in the open picked clean by either a pack of wolves or wild dogs as I entered the village which was made all the more ominous with the thick foreboding fog. I entered the village and also found no sign of life. There was no cafe, no bar or no albergue welcoming me out of the cold and the territory of the whatever devoured that deer.
The Flecha (Arrow) led me where I needed to be - Foncebadon
I clearly felt the energy was screaming at me to move on but that choice was not without its risks either. I would chance being high on the side of the mountain in the dark and all the danger that represented. I would chance running into whatever picked that deer apart.
I walked onward still with the knowledge this was the right choice and possessing immense energy reserves. The Divine was letting me know I was needed in the next village of Foncebadon and not the Templar village of Rabanel. I left and headed up the mountain trail. What I found were very clear signs that God and His Angels were with me on this adventure. I also would find an answer to one of the spiritual matters put forth for my Camino.
A Very Clear Angelic Sign
Eric is Most Definitely Not Alone
I made my way up the mountain as the sun began to wane. To my grand surprise, I saw something that left me speechless. It was a beautiful and assuring Angelic message. I came upon an unattended table with painted rocks and a box that said "Donativo" (Donation). Yes, I found it a bit odd to see this out in the middle of nowhere so I naturally went to take a peak. On this small table in a place it should not be - the remote mountain wilderness of Northwestern Spain - was a painted rock with my name on it. What was so amazing about that you ask? "Eric" has no Spanish etymology. Keep in mind that the name "Eric" is of Scandinavian origin, so there's not even a Spanish equivalent. And here in a region where few if anybody spoke any English was a rock with my name on it. There was no other non-Spanish name on the table. This very much out of place painted rock was an Angelic message and I felt an immense presence of overwhelming love. I was innately confident I was on a journey I was truly divinely called to do. I knew I was absolutely not alone on it either. I left €2 and collected my spiritual token which I would carry with me for the remainder of my journey.
Field of Crosses on Camino de Santiago
Answer to a Spiritual Matter
Soon after this I was blown away once again by the Divine realm. I was suffering from a damaged marriage and sought prayerful guidance for direction on my Camino. I loved this woman deeply and felt very strongly about honoring my marital vows having already stood by her side through absolute hell.
The Angels Answered my Question
She is a wonderful and kind person who is struggling with her demons. We all are. I have deep compassion for her as she bravely goes through her challenges. This was on my mind as I climbed. I came through a field of crosses and then upon this. The Camino brings you to where you need to be and I needed to see and internalize this on the mountain that day. Whatever happens in this life crossroad I will strive to rejoice in the choice. I felt a great deal of comfort and love as I moved onward and upward.
The view was beautiful near Foncebadon
And a Glorious Sunset
I truly felt close to the Divine as I climbed upward. I had been in deep fog throughout the day. Eventually I would go above the cloud line and was treated to the most glorious sunset amid snow capped mountain peaks. I would not have enjoyed this had I gone where I wanted to go. The Camino brings you where you need to be.
Dalmatian greeted me as I entered Foncebadon
Followed by a Dog Sign
After a final climb I reached Foncebadon. Foncebadon is a very small village that is largely in ruins today. It is important because it is the closest village to one of the most important points on the Camino, El Cruz de Fierro. I will explain its significance when I reach it tomorrow. My Guardian Angel explained to me that dogs are very important messengers in my life. Dalmatians are especially important to me as I have two very special Dalmatian souls in my life in Beethoven ('94 - '08) and Suzy Q ('06 - ). I saw a Dalmatian as I entered Foncebadon. I saw a Dalmatian as I left Burgos. I knew this would be a special place on my Camino. The Camino brings you where you need to be.
The Wonderful Albergue Monte Irago
Where Will I Sleep?
It was dark and I had trekked 7 km / 4.5 mi more than planned through difficult terrain. I really needed to find a place. I had heard of a hostel in Foncebadon so I looked for it. I did find it up a dark & lonely dirt road. There was an elderly couple who looked startled and not too happy to see me. "Cerrado, Cerrado..." (Closed) they exclaimed and asked me to leave. I came across the only other place where I saw smoke arising from a chimney.
I received a hearty and warm welcome from the man and woman at the Foncebadon Albergue Monte Irago and saw a sign "Abierto todo el ano" (Open All Year). Bruce Springsteen was playing and their fire was quite welcoming. What more could a pilgrim want? The man bid me good night and was on his way. As the only guest, I got that and much more. This would be one of my favorite places on my El Camino.
I got my belongings situated and my Pilgrim credential stamped and was offered some delicious tapas of Spanish cured ham, olives, cheese and a wonderful house made wine. I introduced myself to the woman. Her name was Katia. She was Austrian and actually spoke English fluently. I had not encountered a fluent English speaker in a week. Katia also rarely met English speaking people. It also did not hurt that she was very beautiful. We would click.
The wine flowed freely and the fire burned brightly. I was also offered a delicious meal of pork, eggs and a salad. The house made bread was also simply sublime. With my stomach full I was ready to enjoy more wine and good conversation by the fireplace with this woman who I would soon find to be quite amazing.
Bruce Springsteen with The Seeger Sessions Band was playing. Katia asked me about the geography and meaning of the songs "Erie Canal" and "Old Dan Tucker". Being that I was from the Midwestern USA and born in the Southeastern USA and currently into some excellent wine I gladly regaled her with stories of both songs. Yes, I was wishing to impress and made sure to explain things from the perspective of someone who had little knowledge of US music or history.
I then wanted to know her story. It seems she up and decided to walk from her home near Salzburg, Austria to Santiago de Compostela and then onward to Finisterre. This is a distance of some 2250 km / 1400 mi. She then intended to walk back but was called to stay for awhile and volunteer in Foncebadon. Like me, she too was at a crossroad in her life. She was unsure what she wanted to do with the rest of her life. She impressed me as an intelligent and mature old soul. I assured her she was where she needed to be right now and she should be confident that she will end up in the right place in her life.
We stayed up until 1am talking about life. I also shared my story about how I came to the Camino and what I hoped to find out there.
It is said that the Camino offers all who walk it the opportunity for a love affair and it is up to each whether they take it or not. I will admit I felt an inexplicable deep connection to Katia and ended up thinking about her well after I left Foncebadon. Absolutely nothing romantic happened that night but I wondered if that indeed was the love affair the Camino offered me.
The Camino took me where I needed to be.
My Tunes for the Day
This album is pure gold and will forever remind me of the wonderful night I spent on the eve before I would go to the Cruz de Fierro.
