Day 16: Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo: Real Housewives of the Bierzo

Quaint chapel in Compostilla just outside of Ponferrada

Pilgrim Waks Into a Bar

I started my day off wearing brand new Smartwool trekking socks and boots warmed by a radiator on a complete day of rest . Just the bliss I needed to exit the maze that was The Way out of Ponferrada. It is not unusual for the Camino signs to get lost in the visual noise of a large city and I had to pay very close attention until I got out into the lovely suburban town of Compostilla.

Once there, I decided an additional navigation enhancer, Cafe con Leche Grande, was well in order. I stopped at a non-descript bar behind this chapel which again appeared closed by American standards. I did not let appearance deter me and walked right up and opened the door. An attractive female soon took my order. The only customers were a group of ladies in their 30's - 40's enjoying a Friday morning coffee friendly ladies' date. The conversation soon became heated and thus a bit more interesting to this pilgrim. It was more of a friendly disagreement that was verbally escalating than a budding cat fight between hated rivals. The bartender and I made eye contact and laughed a bit at the altercation. One woman began yelling even more loudly at the others when one of the others rolled her eyes and exclaimed, "Claro...tiene cucarachas en la cabeza." (Of course.... You have cockroaches in the head). I gave the bartender an "Oh no she di'nt" gasp and smiled with deep content at the very first insult entirely in Spanish that I comprehended in full on my Camino. The lady allegedly with cockroaches in the head steamed out of the bar. I laughed as I headed out on my Camino.

This Canine Spirit Guide Called Me for Eggs and Beer

And Then Another Bar

By the time I arrived at the next village my stomach was inquiring about food. It was about lunchtime. A very friendly dog approached and walked by my side as if to guide me. He walked ahead, sat down outside this bar and looked at me as if to say "This place has a lovely Pilgrim menu del dia." He sold me. By the looks of the inside I could tell this place was quite lively during the busy season. 

Today it was just me and several local men drinking beer and talking La Liga football (Spanish soccer). I did note with a bit of humor that the men of Bierzo could get along just well over beer and sports talk but give the women caffeine and a quiet bar and you are asking for a fight to break out. I decided to vote for peace and enjoyed a lunch of bacon, eggs & a Galician lager beer.

Spanish Love Naked Lady Statues

Onto The Bierzo Wine Country

I was blessed with a beautiful but crisp January day as I trekked. And I soon was going to be blessed with gorgeous scenery to match. I was entering the Bierzo Wine Country which meant The Camino would be surrounded by vineyards for the remainder of the day. The vines were all dormant of course and my only company was the occasional farmer out tending to the land. However I could tell this was probably the slowest terrain of the summer as there were many roadside wine tasting shacks that no doubt did a robust business. There was also the occasional Naked Lady sculpture. The Spanish appeared to love these. I obviously did too.

Another interesting hand-made flecha (arrow)

Then to Camponaraya

The Way was lovely as vineyards temporarily gave way to wooded trails. Hand-made signs gave the Camino a more mystic feel than usual through this section. Maybe that was a bit of Camino foreshadowing as I soon would experience another interesting encounter.

Another Angelic Sign? Dog Out of Nowhere

Canine Angel Greeting

My Guarding Angel told me that God uses dogs in my life to show love and in turn I am to minister to dogs. This makes perfect sense given the role dogs have played in my life. I stopped just before the village of Cacabelos to rest a bit before my final walk to Villafranca. 

I was approached by a dog who seemed to appear out of nowhere. He was comforting and at the same time curious of me. He stayed by my side the entire time I rested.  When I got up to leave he followed but only to the edge of the rest area. I thanked him for his company and lovingly exclaimed "Perro bueno" (Good dog) before leaving. He wagged his tail as if to say "Buen Camino." I took a few steps and looked back. The dog had completely vanished as if into thin air. I waited and looked to see if he went behind a tree or some such. I never saw him. This was very unusual because there was no place he could have easily gone that would have been out of my sight. I took note of this with a "Wow"!

Was this an angel or a spirit guide sent to check on me? I have no idea but I can say I did enjoy the company and felt happy for having had the experience.

Interesting sculpture in a Vineyard

Vineyards into Villafranca

The Way out of Cacabelos was adjacent to a busy rural highway and quite hilly. There was also a strong headwind which made it mentally taxing. Eventually the Camino turned off onto dirt trail along vineyards which was much better for the final km of the day. Some rather interesting sculpture in the style of Gaudi caught my eye. It was beautiful but quite unusual. It seemed a bit out of place in a vineyard. I stopped a bit to take it all in as this too was meant to be a part of my Camino experience.

There was a village off to my left in the distance. That usually is a Camino sign that means this is where you will stop for the night. I noticed that the Camino was making no progress to that village which was a bit disheartening for a tired pilgrim who is also going uphill. At the top of the hill, I saw the medieval village that was Villafranca. I was right there and my spirits lifted. It turns out that the little town I saw was Corullon. It has 3 extraordinary Romanesque churches but I had no desire to go the extra 3 km / 2 mi to get there late Friday evening as the sun was going down and a misty rain was in the forecast. Just food and shelter was on my mind.

Early 12th Century Medieval Bridge in Villafranca 

Where Will I Sleep Tonight

I arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo from atop a big hill. Villafranca is one of the best preserved medieval towns on the Camino and one of its prominent features is steep stairs leading to its impressively beautiful Plaza Mayor (Town Square). I did take note of an open Alburgue  atop the hill.


However if I committed to staying here I would have to walk downhill in the cold rain to get food and then uphill back. I decided to take my chances downhill. I would be walking up mountain ranges soon enough. There is no need to add hills when I should be resting after a long trek.

I arrived into the Plaza Mayor. It was beautiful and there were plenty of places to eat but all the hostels and hotels were closed. There was a sign advertising a hostel further down the Camino though. I had no assurances that it would be open so my choices were to walk back uphill to the sure thing or keep on going a bit to the advertised hostel which would also reduce my next day's walk by 1.5km / 1mi. I chose to gamble and look for that hostel.

Searching for this hostel took much more work than I thought. I was about ready to turn around and backtrack to the albergue when I finally saw a sign that pointed basically down a back alley near the river. I followed it and saw a place that looked very much closed. I rang the doorbell. What do you know; Somebody answered. I was taken to a very nice room with a nice shower and good heat too. Just what I needed as the rain started coming down outside. I took a shower and soon headed off to enjoy a nice Pilgrim Menu del dia (Menu of the Day). I fell asleep quite content and ready for the next day's challenge. I was once more going up into the mountains.

Villafranca was essentially a "foreigners' town" as described in a document from 943. Modernization had completely passed it by and it was one of the few Camino towns that had retained all its preserved medieval architecture and charm. It would make an excellent Rest Day to experience the rich history and medieval architecture while getting ready for the mountain effort.

My Tunes for the Day

I loved this song. I spoke to me on my Camino journey since I was on a spiritual crossroads of major transition in my life too. I literally was experiencing most of the Top 10 Life Stress Events all concurrently. At the same time I was being divinely called to walk across northern Spain in the dead of winter too. I also encountered a fair amount of rain on The Way so the symbolism was evident. I would not be along through this.