Day 14 Foncebadon - Ponferrada: Of Crosses, Storms and Templars

Hospital de San Juan 11th century Medieval Ruins

Leaving Foncebadon

I was off for a second long 26 km / 16.2 mi day over difficult terrain and my friend Katia was off to yoga. I said my goodbyes and left. I was only about 2 km / 1.25 mi from one of the most sacred places on the Camino, Cruz de Fierro (Cross of Iron) and was contemplating my arrival while processing all that happened the prior day. I began my contemplation as I passed by the medieval ruins pictured 

Cruz de Fierro

The Presence of God 

This is an oft overused phrase sometimes sadly spoken with only vague meaning. Today would not be one of those days. I could feel the Divine God as I got within a few hundred meters of Cruz de Fierro. I could feel positive warming energy envelope my entire being and vibrations that echoed through my core. I felt loved. I felt connected. I assure you these were very real experiences and not just some literary device of new age metaphors. It was immensely cool.

Modern Pilgrim Offering

The Cruz de Fierro is a monument located on the highest point of the Camino de Santiago. It has medieval origins and ancient pilgrims left a stone in honor of their safe passage. Modern pilgrims continue that tradition by leaving a stone and sometimes a memento. Their reasons are as varied as there are numbers of pilgrims. I left two stones and a symbol of things I intended to unburden myself of going forward.

My Offering God = Love Good Journey

I carried a rock from my favorite beach in Bermuda as it is tradition to carry a rock from your homeland. I left this as a Thanksgiving for a safe journey and as a Prayer to honor my efforts on the Camino. I also carried a rock from the grave site of my mother and grandparents. My grandmother passed away at 100 yo before I left on my Camino. I wanted to honor them. Lastly, I left some work documents from a rather toxic and unhealthy work situation that seriously impacted my personal life. I left this as a symbol that I would be leaving all that was symbolized by that experience behind and let it go. I prayed and meditated on a chapel bench facing the Cruz de Fierro for quite awhile. 

When I felt ready, I made a final ascent up the rock pile to touch the cross where I asked God to allow all the positive energy that this sacred place represented over time come into my being. I left but not without leaving a final message for pilgrims who would follow in my footsteps "Dios = Amor Buen Camino" (God = Love Good Journey). I had an immense feeling of elation and energy. I also was now going downhill.

Tomas the Templar - Camino Legend in Manjarin

A Templar Knight

It would not be long until I entered Manjarin and encountered the dwellings of a Camino legend, Tomas the Templar Knight. As a pilgrim approaches, Tomas rings his bell loudly to welcome them. Tomas dresses as a Templar Knight. This very small and currently deserted village has its history dating from the 12 century as a Templar outpost to protect pilgrims crossing the mountain.

Tomas maintains a  very primitive refugio (eg hostel) that has no running water, electricity or toilet. I wasn't interested in that but he also had a dog. "Donde esta su perro" (Where is your dog?) was the first question I asked. Tomas also offered cafe con leche and snacks on a donation basis. His refuge could not have come at a more perfect location for me. No sooner than I entered, a torrential rain storm with gale force winds struck. My serious rain gear was in my back pack. I got nearly naked in front of this man. I gore-tex'd up. I made a contribution to his Pilgrimage signs (Wrigley Field) as shown in the picture and I was on my down.

A storm is brewing off Monte Irago Pass

Downhill in a Gale 

Once I left Manjarin two things came imminently apparent. The first was that I was on a serious descent. Trekking downhill can be and often is harder on the body than uphill. I really needed my Leki Trekking poles to make this day easier on my knees and quads. These poles allow you to transfer a great deal of the work to your core and upper body when used properly. I absolutely love my Leki Trekking poles.

The second was that the weather was going to be quite fierce. The cloud bank in the photo brought pretty high winds, sleet and rain that came at me from above, the side and even sometimes from below. While I knew I was innately protected on this journey I was a bit concerned going through the thick of this storm. Thank God I walked out of it in about an hour.

Beautiful Camino scenery

Once the weather was not a serious concern I still had a few hours trekking down the mountain. Part of it required very deliberate footing as it was dangerously slick. Part though was serenely beautiful and made for an enjoyable Camino experience.

Molinaseca where I crossed a 12th century bridge

The Valley Brings Relief

I came off the mountain quite thankful for my safe descent. Molinaseca was a welcome site indeed. It was a beautiful town that was quite wealthy in medieval times and had some nice homes that seemed to indicate it still retained its status as a wealthy enclave. It was charming enough that I considered staying here for the night and having a short walk into Ponferrada the next day but it seemed mostly closed. I decided to press onward for the final 10 km / 6.2 mi.

I knew this decision would have me walking my last hour in the dark but was not concerned since I would be walking mostly in suburban or urban areas with some street lighting to guide me.

I came upon a local woman out speed walking for exercise on the outskirts of town and quickened my pace to keep up with her. This worked until she followed the main road and I had to turn off onto a Camino Trail. It was shortly thereafter that I actually encountered my first pack of feral dogs. They were about 10 and mostly small to medium sized. However they were very territorial and one was very interested in attacking if given the chance. Fortunately, I am very adept at reading dog body language and was easily able to fend the dogs off with my body language. I did not have to harm them either.

Templar Castle - Ponferrada

Finally Ponferrada  

The stretch into Ponferrada was slightly demoralizing. The main basilica had a beacon light which could be seen for miles. The Camino Trail however seemed intent on circling the town without making progress towards it. I was hungry and it was dark so I finally was relieved when the path changed direction toward the actual town.

After crossing over a large 11th century bridge which gave the town its namesake "Pons Ferrata" (Iron Bridge) and passing through the town wall, one of the first things I saw was the large and imposing Templar Castle. I wanted to experience the Camino as I walked it so I did minimal research as to what was in each town or village. I had no idea there was such a large and historically important castle here. Legend and lore holds that keys to the Holy Grail and Ark of the Convenant are located within these walls.

So with a castle, a cathedral and culinary specialties combined with the fact that I was still one day ahead of plan meant one thing; I was taking a much needed and deserved rest day in Ponferrada.

My Tunes for the Day

This was an awesome tune that I listened to every day on the Camino. Pink - Just Give Me a Reason gave me pause to reflect on the spiritual matter of my damaged relationship and it also had a perfect trekking cadence.