Day 6 Moratinos - Sahagún: An Apparition, Mysterious Whistling Tree and a College Football Miracle

Leaving Palencia, Entering Castilla y Leon

Out With the Old, In With the New

As I left 2012 behind for 2013, I would be leaving the province (US equivalent of a State) of Palencia behind today and entering Catilla y Leon. I also would be enjoying a well-deserved 1/2 day of hiking but never fear Camino fans because The Way would offer its mystery and history in full.

Another Apparition?

The Camino continued on the flat Mesa today. I saw something I had not yet seen on the Camino - another Pilgrim or so I thought. Just after the former Templar village of San Nicolas del Real Camino, I saw another person about 200 m in front of me. The person appeared to be a modern pilgrim in dress and was carrying a backpack too. I followed this person for awhile. I stopped to take a picture and noticed that they simply vanished. There was no alternative path. There was no buildings. They could not have gone anywhere. I was simply astonished and while not averse to the supernatural on the Camino became curious as to what exactly happened. Did I encounter the apparition of a pilgrim who continued onward? Was this an angel watching over me?

And Then a Whispering Tree

This tree captivated me and reinforced a life lesson

I walked a little pondering what happened while enjoying a beautiful day. I was looking forward and walking with a good cadence. I heard something that caught my attention and called me to stop. What was this? A single whispering tree brought about this pause. The whispering in the wind was incessant and in a ways a bit magical. Why was this tree making this curious sound? Why was this tree the only one to have all its leaves while the others were completely barren? Why did I hear it so profoundly? Oh and then I noted that this tree happened to be around the spot where the apparition / angel pilgrim vanished. Was there meaning in this?

Always follow La Concha y Fecha (the scallop shell and yellow arrow)

To me, this was a reinforcement to live in the moment and notice the so-called small things all around you for in time, these can be the big things. Such was this single whispering tree out of the thousands upon thousands of trees I encountered on my journey. God was speaking to me in this. I heard the still voice within.

12th Century Bidge and Church near Sahagún

Entering Sahagún

Sahagún is a small town that was a focal point of the 9th and 10th century wars between Muslims and Christians. It emerged to be the most important religious and economic center in the Province of Leon outside of the capital city. About 2 km / 1.3 mi outside of the town I was captivated by a medieval bridge and church standing alone in a field. It no doubt was built for pilgrims but also likely served as some sort of defensive outpost as it looked to be outside of the city walls. Note the arrow slots above the windows. I pondered what life must have been like for those who lived, worked, defended and visited here.

On a less transcendent note, I also wondered what might be in store for the Menu del Dia (Menu of the Day) as I was a bit hungry even after a 1/2 day of hiking. 

I also was looking forward to some wi fi and ESPN Gameplan International. I might be on pilgrimage but another religious experience was calling me; seeing the Southeastern Conference kick ass in the January 1 Bowl Games most notably my alma mater The University of South Carolina. I was eager to see them go medieval on the University of Michigan at 7pm Central European Time.

Inglesia de San Juan de Sahagún

But first I would explore the town. I attended a Mass at the brightly colored Inglesia de San Juan. Although this is a neoclassical church that clearly does date from medieval times, it contains some very important relics; the remains of 4th century martyrs Saints Facundo and Primitivo from whom the town name is derived.

The Mass was in Spanish but some things translate no matter what the language. I gave thanks in my own way during the parts that did not translate so well.

Impressive Tower of Inglesia de San Tirso in Sahagún

Inglesia de San Tirso dates from the 12th century although the tower fell in 1945 and was reconstructed. The Tower called me to explore. Unfortunately it was closed but I did learn it houses the 13th century tomb of Spanish King Alfonzo X's granddaughter.

I soon found a nice Michelin Guide recommended restaurant on the Plaza Mayor (Town Square) that was very much alive. Older gentlemen were playing cards. Couples were gathered at the bar for Siesta time enjoying wine and conversation. Families with children were at tables enjoying a holiday outing with pintxos (Tapas) and wine. It was nice to be in a happening place after much alone time on the Camino even if I was just people watching.

The Menu del Dia was amazing. I enjoyed a tasty Sopa de Castilla for a starter. This is a very old, peasant-style dish and is typical of the Castilla-Leon Regional Cuisine but it is so tasty. It is a hearty garlic soup with Spanish cured ham, Kidney Beans and Bread. It was one of my favorite dishes. The main course was Roast Lamb and French fries. The fries were **gasp** real potatoes cooked in olive oil. They were sublime. And it goes without saying that the vino tinto de la Casa (Red Wine of the House) was just wow. I got all this for 12 euro / $14.

And about my University of South Carolina Gamecocks I saw them beat Michigan with a 32 yard TD pass with 11 seconds left in the game on a pass thrown by the 3rd string QB to the Point Guard on the basketball team. This propelled them into an 11 win season and Top 10 Final Ranking for the second consecutive year only one of four teams to accomplish this. Fitting that this would happen while I was in a Spanish province where the Rooster figured prominently.

I considered that yet another Camino miracle! I was very happy when I went to bed that night and rested well. I clearly needed that 1/2 day and would enjoy a few more short days en route to Leon before the big mountains came into my radar.

My Tunes for the Day

A Southern boy on a long journey... what better song to be a quintessential record on his Camino play list? Lynyrd Skynyrd Free Bird of course and I had a version that was long and live. One of the, if not the greatest rock n roll record ever recorded and all by a band whose name came from a Junior High School gym teacher.