Day 17: Villafranca del Bierzo - Vega de Valcare: I Took The High Road

12th Century Medieval Bridge Leading Out of Villafranca

Easy or Freakin' Cool 

I awoke well-rested and happy to be in a hostel that had a lovely view of the river and breakfast included. It was a very nice way to start the day.

The day would offer me a choice. I could either take the "Camino Lite" or the "True Pilgrim" route. The Camino Lite route took the valley road. This was flat, steady terrain and was 1.5 km / 1 mi shorter. It certainly was more prudent.

I took the high road out of Villafranca

The True Pilgrim was vertical from the start. It was uphill, uneven, wet and slippery terrain for 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent followed by a gnarly, almost straight 2 km / 1.25 mi treacherous descent. It would take about 2 hrs longer and it was raining steadily.

Guess which one I chose? My Guardian Angel told me to do epic stuff. Always go with an option described as gnarly in life.

Mountain Village of Trabadelo

The Cafe Free Summit 

Although the province border of Leon extends to another day's walk, the village architecture and flavor are now pure Galician. They are smaller; more hamlets than village. They consist of a few stone houses clustered around a tiny stone church. The cow population increased. Stone fences divide land into smaller plots. The farmers and locals were quite friendly too.

After a few hours of strenuous climbing I arrived at the mountain top village of Trabadelo. I so desired a Pilgrim credential stamp to show I took this route and a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) to warm me up. There were signs along The Camino that suggested a cafe was open in the village. But alas after a walk through the charming hamlet I saw the cafe / bar was closed. I was devastated. I broke down in tears and wanted to quit my Camino. OK, I didn't. I really walked with this friendly farmer and his rather large horse back to his field / my Camino Trail.

Stone Church of Trabadelo

What Goes Up Comes Down 

I arrived back on the Camino. The 10 km / 6.2 mi ascent would be followed by a very steep 2 km / 1.25 mi descent. The going was slow because every step had to be taken with care but time was of no essence. I enjoyed being present in the moment and enjoying the glorious valley views. I also felt very much alive for choosing the "True Pilgrim" route over "Camino Lite." It should also be noted that during medieval times the "Camino Lite" version was extremely dangerous with murderous thieves. However, those that chose the "True Pilgrim" route faced a financial mugging too. The Castle Auctares stood on the exit from Trabadelo and the lords supported themselves by taxing (eg extorting) the Pilgrims until King Alonso VI put a stop to the practice in 1072. As I always say, they were mugged just the same except there was no violence involved and the terms were usually known in advance.

Medieval Bridge Along Tranquil Vega de Valcare

Thou I Walk Through The Valley...

In this case, it was far more tranquility than death so no evil was remotely feared; just the next rain outburst. I had a short and very enjoyable walk for the final 5 km / 3.2 mi before the next day's climb into snow-capped mountains at altitude.

Angelic Messages Came Just The Same

Although the day was intentional short distance-wise, my Guardian Angel and Spirit Guides were present with plenty of uplifting messages. Some may see these as mere chance encounters of graffiti left by others. My world view does not believe in coincidences. Everything happens for a reason. There were no doubt thousands of messages like this on The Camino. I was placed in the right place at the right time to see these.

I felt my Camino calling and life path was affirmed.

I was in a very big life transition. I felt content that things would be ok.

This was the EXACT message my Guardian Angel gave on Day 1

Dogs serve as a message of God's love. I loved this guy!

Where Would I Sleep?

The Camino followed a busy interstate and eventually crossed paths with a hotel / restaurant / service station about 3 km / 2 mi from my planned destination. It was somewhat important I cover as much distance as possible today because the next day was going to be spent climbing a mountain.

I rested a bit with a Coke for energy before I went the final stretch which would take me into 3 hamlets that were very close together. It started to rain pretty heavy and I was thus eager to find a place to sleep. The first hamlet had nothing open. However I did encounter the sweetest German Shepherd who smiled and posed for my camera. I took this as another message that I was not alone on my journey here and would find shelter soon. I passed the second hamlet and nothing was open while the rain came down harder.

Small Chapel near Vega de Valcarce

My Options Were Bleak Until... 

I finally came into the third hamlet. It was a dark and stormy night. It was the best of times. It was the worst of times. You know the literary devices so I will go no further. I was also starving. I looked and looked and looked - nothing.

I was going to walk up one more block before I would decide to walk the 3 km / 2 mi back to the known hotel. There was a hostel sign advertised. I came upon the hostel and it was closed tight. There was a hair salon next door though where a woman was cutting a man's hair. As I started to walk away I heard her calling me from afar. She opened the door for me which led to a nice albeit very empty albergue with bunk beds. She gladly accepted my 8 euros and I had a bed and an albergue all to myself. I then found a lovely warm shower too. All was well.

Once squared away, I walked into "town" to find a nice market open. It was Saturday and it is best practice to buy food for Sunday because you do not know if anything will be open on the Camino on a Sunday. I then found myself in the community bar next door. I enjoyed plenty of wine (eg nearly a bottle) and delicious tapas for all of only 4 euros.

I also was quite amused. I was in the bar with hill folk. There were hunting trophies and things like stuffed squirrels throughout the bar. Old men played cards at the tables. I wore REI clothing and Crocs. I ahem didn't blend. I imagine they got a kick out of the stranger too.

My Tunes for the Day

Lana Del Rey was all new to me. I purposely picked new records for my Camino experience to accompany my classic play lists. While a mountain valley in the northwest corner of Spain was about as far away from cruising down Hollywood and Vine as you could imagine, It was Saturday though and I loved listening to "Burning Desire" everyday of my Camino.