Day 9 Mansilla de las Mulas - León: Trading Countryside for City of Luxury, Kings and Cathedrals

Camino Sculpture - Mansilla de las Mulas Plaza Mayor

My Solitary Days Are Over

My first 8 days of the Camino were marked by solitude interspersed with the occasional laudatory greeting from country locals, farmers, shepherds, livestock and their dogs for my effort on the Pilgrimage. That would end today as I was entering a big city. I would be trading 1 star hostels and albergues for a 5 star Parador that ranks among the best hotels in the world. Dirt trails would give way to designated bike lanes. Pastures would be replaced with urban parks.

I would walk 20 km / 12.4 mi today. I would start out in the countryside. I would then be made fully aware that a Pilgrim entering a large city does not initially encounter a town wall and then history before their very eyes. Entering this urban landscape my introductions are suburban strip malls, aging factories, fenced in warehouses and then vistas of a mix of distressed commercial real estate and big box stores. This soon gives way to blighted neighborhoods of the urban poor where I feel more an outside oddity than a Pilgrim. Eventually blighted gives way to the gentrified ironically hip urban area. Soon sloppy gashes of yellow arrows usually above bullfight or karate lesson posters are joined by slow-moving cars, odd and quick pacing of many people behind and beside me and high rises, lots of high rises.

I take comfort in big cities but alas let's not get ahead of the story.

Give these geese credit. They were correctly pointing The Way!

An Escort Out of Mansilla

I had the distinct honor of being escorted in and out of villages along the Camino by sheep, cattle, roosters dogs, cats, goats, donkeys but today would bring geese. Quite lively and welcoming fowl they were too. They waddled on over to the camera for their portrait and then proceeded to give me directions while quacking me a "Buen Camino". I'm guessing I was not the first Pilgrim they ever encountered. Their caretaker seemed a bit perplexed at "Un Americano loco con cámara" (A crazy American with camera).

Modern Pilgrim Bridge Alongside Medieval Puente de Villarente

New Alongside the Old

As the countryside would very soon give way to suburban towns of León the last bastion of green was in the small medieval road town of Villarente. I really enjoyed crossing on a sleek, modern Pilgrim Bridge which afforded a view of its 12th century predecessor. 

An artistic local flecha (arrow) in Villarente

More local artistry

I appreciated any and all flechas (directional arrows) that kept me on The Way. I had a special fondness for the more colorful ones such as this one.

This Basset Hound Brought a Warm Smile as I entered León

This Sign from God Waddled and Strolled

 My Guardian Angel promised there would be dogs greeting me as a sign that God was with me, I was loved and I would be protected on my Pilgrimage. It seemed that important cities warranted extra meaningful signs. I encountered a beautiful Dalmatian in Burgos. Imagine if you will the huge smile in my heart when I came across this silly Basset Hound at the summit of a hill entering León. 

For those that don't know, I have two very special Dalmatians (Beethoven 94-08 & Suzy Q 05 - Present)  and a sweet Basset Hound (Sweetpea 04 - Present) in my life.

This little angel with long floppy ears appeared over a hill, gave out a large Basset "Aaaaroooo", came over for a belly rub, posed for a pic, walked a ways with me before deciding there was a more interesting scent in another direction. I imagine the interaction happened like this. As I began my climb up the hill my Basset friend was taking a morning nap in a sunny spot. She was gently awoken by an Angel who exclaimed "Eric is arriving. He needs a special messenger to welcome him into León. Will you answer God's call?" The Basset agreed but figured she had time for a few minutes of lounging until I got there. Hearing the click, clack of my Leki trekking poles she leaped (by Basset standards) over a hill. Of course she wanted a belly rub because that is ingrained in Basset DNA. She followed along for a bit before smelling a rabbit in an afar field. "God, He gets the message and knows the way to León. Glory to you. Aaaaroooo." as she sauntered off.

First View of León atop a Pedestrian Bridge over Highway

The Hill Above León 

Soon any remnants of country would be gone as I crossed over a large Pedestrian Bridge over a busy highway. This bridge would offer a first breathtaking view of the bustling city of León. Minutes away by auto yes but a Pilgrim still had about 2 hours of urban trekking in front of him.
Shortly after I crossed I had yet another funny "Aha" moment. I came across the large and heavily fortified headquarters of a Spanish Bank no doubt filled with many cube dwellers who dreaded going to work in a soul less building devoid of even the most basic architectural flair. I soon caught eye of its next door neighbor.  It was the Castilla y  León State Mental Hospital which appeared to have been designed by the same architect. Having worked most of my life in the Financial Services industry I laughed at the irony.

Puente Castro Once known as one of the Five Wonders of the World

Crossing the Puente Castro Bridge 

After making my way through the less attractive urban necessities a Pilgrim encounters before entering a large city, I finally found the medieval Roman bridge into the city itself; Puente Castro. It was a nice day so many people were out walking and running on the bridge and trails beside Rio Castro.

Alas this bridge leads into the City Center. There still remains a fairly long trek into the historic center and then a bit longer to my highly anticipated room at the Parador.

Well-marked Bike Path

The Way of Asphalt and Bike Paths

I soon was sharing sidewalk with people going about their busy daily lives as well as bicyclists using a well-marked and quite festive designated bike lane. I am a Chicagoan who has lived in Holland. I respect the bike path and knew to look both ways before I took this photo!

Shortly I encountered the two Korean students from the past two days. Like me, they were wondering where their albergue was. I did not have the heart to tell them my hostel was the 5 star Parador Hostel San Marcos. In fairness, their albergue was only a block or two away. I still had 2 km / 1.25 mi to go to mine. After a day of trekking, that distance can seem a bit dauntingly long especially when you are ready for a hot shower and to not have a backpack on your back.

Lovely Park Along Rio Bernesga

A Beautiful Riverside Promenade 

I will say that my final bit of trekking was in an urban oasis making it quite pleasant. I trekked along the Rio Bernesga. This promenade offered some nice Friday afternoon people watching, interesting sculpture and happy dogs out for a stroll. I also let go of any concerns about going out of my way as the path took me along The Camino to the edge of León where Pilgrims would leave the city.

The Luxurious Parador Hostel San Marco de León

Finally My Room for the Night 

After 9 straight days of hiking The Camino, I was in definite need of a Rest Day. I planned to do it in incredible style at this humble convent. OK, it was once a humble convent. It eventually was a place where medieval pilgrims of means would stay. Today it is where this Pilgrim will stay for 2 nights. I will eat very well. I will rest. I will explore the great 1st century city of the Kings of León.

My first order of business though is to luxuriate in a Bubble Bath with a bit of well-earned Cava.

My Tunes for the Day

Pilgrims enter the city through the Barrio de Santa Ana  Money Gate. It is only appropriate to share Steve Miller's "Take the Money and Run" a song I was known to click my trekking poles together during the hand clapping portion.